Description
HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1 in 2 out 8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz with HDCP Bypass, Scaler 4K to 1080P, EDID management
8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1×2,48Gbps,Supports Soundbar,HDCP 2.2,HDCP 2.3 Bypass,Duplicate/Mirror,EDID,Copy,Downscale,
$313.27
Additional information
| Weight | 399 kg |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 14.2 × 8.71 cm |
| Brand | AVFABUL |
| Model | AV-SP12H28S |
| Model Name | AV-SP12H28S |
| Compatible Devices | PC, laptop, QLED TV, UHD TV, 8K Monitor, PS5, XBOX, Apple TV, Fire Stick, Roku, Blu-ray Player, Projector |
| Number Of Items | 1 |
| Batteries Included | No |
| Batteries Required | No |
| Type of cable or wire | HDMI |
| Number of Ports | 2 |
| Item model number | AV-SP12H28S |
| Package Dimensions | 15.19 x 14.2 x 8.71 cm; 399 Grams |
| ASIN | B0B5ZQK9BZ |
| Date First Available | 7 July 2022 |
| Manufacturer | AVFABUL |
10 reviews for 8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1×2,48Gbps,Supports Soundbar,HDCP 2.2,HDCP 2.3 Bypass,Duplicate/Mirror,EDID,Copy,Downscale,
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Joey –
Great when it works, but starting to get annoying
I bought this because I have a new Epson LS12000 projector with HDMI 2.1 support, capable of 4k120hz 10-bit with HDR10+, but my AVR is only HDMI 2.0b. The computer I’m using with this setup had some issues with running the AVR off a separate display, and using ARC to pass audio bacj to AVR from the projector was limiting the supported audio modes. With this device, I can have a single output from the PC, and then split it to the projector for full video capabilities and the AVR for full audio capabilities (just sending a 1080p signal to AVR).Initially it was flawless. Just after a month though, I started getting display flickering. I unplugged it overnight and then it was stable for like another week or two. The intervals between flickering and needing rebooted keep getting shorter and shorter. I’ve owned it for almost 2 months and now it needs rebooted near daily, sometimes multiple times in a single day.In fairness, they do say to power it off when not in use. That’s the annoying part, because there is no remote. The whole rest of the theater is remote controlled, except this box. The power connection is also a screw-in connector and the HDMI ports are pretty finicky and can easily be bumped to where they’re unstable. So it’s really annoying and impractical to be unplugging and replugging all the time. There isn’t even a power button. Unfortunately the only alternative I’m aware of is a $600 HDfury device, which is not worth it to avoid replacing an AVR just to get support for HDMI 2.1. So for now I’m just dealing with it but fear that it will completely die soon or just become so unstable that it’s completely unusable. Considering just adding a remote switch for the outlet that it’s on. If your AVR has switched outlets, that would be ideal to just plug into those so it turns on/off automatically with the AVR. Mine unfortunately doesn’t for some reason.
Amazon Customer –
I wish this worked better
I’ve been hoping for a product like this for a long time.I want to get the best possible signal from my Xbox Series X to both my TV and my A/V receiver. My receiver won’t pass VRR to the TV and my TV won’t pass anything better than Dolby Digital 5.1 to the receiver via regular ARC. (Also the TV puts in a 1s delay on DD signal passed via ARC, so it’s pretty useless anyway.)After initial setup, this device worked like a charm. Source: Xbox Series X. Out1: Samsung 2019 Q70R TV Out2: 2021 Pioneer LX-505 receiver.All the EDID showed up as expected and I can get 4K60 with Freesync VRR on the TV. (That’s the highest this TV supports.) Also 1440p@120Hz worked great. I’m also getting all the expected audio options for the TV: Atmos, DTS X, 7.1 PCM.It worked great for a couple of hours but then the picture started coming in an out and then finally dropped altogether. The device was fairly hot to the touch but not scorching.Trying it the next day, I get the video signal flashing in and out. Too bad. Returning.
Kindle Customer –
A little finicky, but it works! One PC (RTX 4090) to two TVs @ 4k 120 Hz HDR/VRR
I’m using this splitter to have my gaming PC drive two displays – a 50″ Samsung QN90B in the bedroom, and a 75″ Samsung Q90T in the living room. I want to be able to move between rooms without changing connections on my GPU or fiddling around with Windows 11 multi-monitor annoyances.4 stars instead of 5 because it was fiddly to get working and it’s a fairly expensive piece of kit. That may be the fault of HDMI tech in general, but I still didn’t expect to spend an afternoon troubleshooting this for the money. Had to fully power down everything and try different boot sequences between the TVs / PC / Splitter, as well as different points in the sequence to switch the TVs into “game mode”, before I managed to get both TVs to accept a 4k120 Hz HDR/VRR signal, but I eventually got it working.In case it’s ever of use to anyone else, my setup worked with the following order:Use the less capable TV (the Q90T) as “OUT1”, the more capable TV (the QN90B) as “OUT2”, with EDID set to “Copy” and OUT2 output at 4kShut everything downPower the splitterPower the two TVs, any orderPower the PCWait for signal on the Q90T (OUT1), switch it to “Game Mode” once there is signal and confirm 4k120 HDR/VRRIf no signal on QN90B (OUT2), manually toggle “Game Mode” setting to get signal. If this fails, go back to step 1 and repeat until success (I never had to attempt more than twice).Only other downside is that I can’t make use of the 144 Hz refresh rate on my Samsung QN90B, but I’m OK with that; the difference between 120 HZ and 144 Hz is minor, and I didn’t expect to be able to run two displays at different refresh rates off a splitter.–EDIT – Now 5 Stars!–I contacted support, and they promptly provided updated firmware which resolved all my issues getting both TVs to accept signal. I now have 4k 120 Hz VRR/HDR on both screens with zero hassles from this adapter. Great stuff!
Laurent A. –
Works as expected, good image quality, but seems rebooting once a while
The overall product seems to be of good quality.The image is clean, seems as fast as specified.However, I don’t know if it’s my setup or the device itself, it seems rebooting once a while.When I remove it and go directly, it works fine.A bit expensive. I found a cheaper equivalent with great reviews a few days after I purchasing this one. :-/
Mr. Eagle Eye –
Not for gaming
If you are buying this because you are trying to use your philips Hue sync box with your ps5 or Xbox x series DON’T!PLEASE NOTE this supports 120hz but limits you to HDR if you are trying to use Dolby Vision which IMO is much better quality you are still capped at 60hz. It was a good attempt for a work around but youre downs calling your graphics for pretty background colors I don’t reccomdn this or philips hue
Mike –
Useful to solve problems with Philips Sync Box or Receiver limitations
I got this primarily because I kept having issues with a Philips hue sync box, which would regularly just cut off for no apparent reason, any time it did I would lose all audio and video for a few seconds each time.This solves that problem by having it split to one dedicated cable going straight to TV and the other going to the sync box.Additionally with higher end consoles and TV’s 4K/120 may not pass through with all receivers, this solves that issue too as I have a Denon which seems unable to actually pass 4K/120 straight through, so in my case I have output 1 straight to TV and output 2 to my receiver and then from there out to the sync boxStill seems to be some issues with my complicated setup, but they’re not due to any fault of this splitter, it seems to do its just exactly as intended, but it isn’t a miracle worker.There still appears to be no true way to pass thru VRR for example.
Driveformer –
Almost perfect
Does everything it advertises, letting me use my Hue Sync Box while taking advantage of every feature on my new OLED TV. The only problem keeping it from a 5 star, is that occasionally the image must freeze or something as my lights freeze. A reboot of this device solves it, luckily I power this with POE so I can reset it from a browser but it’s still way less than ideal. Maybe this can be addressed in a firmware update?
Alex –
PS5 + Philips Hue SyncBox
I was looking for the solution and this is the one. Look no further. I get full 4k 120Hz, VRR, HDR from PS5 to my LG OLED and my HueSync lights work like magic, making gaming experience even better. Basically you feed your 4k signal directly to the TV via this splitter and the downscaled signal (1080p) to the Sync Box.One thing I still haven’t figured out is it seems that Hue Sync Box doesn’t want to start sync automatically if the Sync Box’s HDMI output is not active on TV. I have to manually start Sync from the app. Not ideal, but better than sacrificing signal quality.
Matt L –
One of the few that works as advertised!
I have my game PC in the room next to my basement theater and instead of using something like Gamestream or Steam Link, I just ran an HDMI cable from my PC to another input on my theater receiver.The problem is my Theater TV supports 4K/120hz and HDR, however my 4K gaming monitor does not.So as I primarily play my PC in the theater, I wanted to expose the capabilities of the TV to the PC.So now my TV can run at 4K/120hz HDR and the splitter will downscale that to my monitor in the other room.The other issue this splitter gets around is the latency that exists when trying to game on a TV as a secondary extended display.Overall it’s expensive, but it definitely gets the job done!
Larry –
Bypass hue sync box to ps5 to get high framrate and VRR
This took me some time to figure out. So I’ll break this down in a quick short way. This does bypass the hue sync box with a ps5 to get you that 120fps with VRR on. Hue sync wouldn’t let you get your VRR with 120fps. Quick hook up, is keep same setup up you have with your ps5 hdmi plug that goes into your sync box along with hdmi into tv. The tip is, grab another hmdi (doesn’t have to be a 2.1 cable) can be any cable. Take that hdmi and give your sync box another input to run. Put your hmdi into another import on the sync box and run that cable into the back of splitter in the (hmdi out1). Now you’re good with the ps5… You can play a game on high framrate along with VRR on