what is up everybody eric here from soundcast studios today i'm making a quick video on the art ps8 power sequencer which is a power conditioner with the added feature of having delay with turning it on and off i got this unit to be able to turn off all my gear with the flip of a switch i had a furman m8 before and i would always have to turn off my speakers before switching it off or i would have the speakers pop which isn't good for them the front of the unit has a knob that allows you to control the delay of the outlets from half a second to two seconds so far i haven't had any issues with the unit the sequencing has been working exactly as intended i have my interface turned on before my speakers and when i turn it off my speakers turn off before my interface which is exactly what i wanted there is no pops or anything and it's been working exactly as intended when looking up this unit online there weren't many reviews to go off of and so i kind of did a shot in the dark in buying it the alternative would have been the furman m8s which is like 400 which is almost double what this unit ended up costing this one was like 230 but also you get the quality of furmin and they are known for their power conditioners and so you'd get peace of mind but i was very curious to see if a lower cost option would be just as good so far it's working but i don't know how long it'll last if it'll damage my gear in the long run i'm not entirely sure on the longevity of this unit since there's not a lot to go off of online so hopefully in making this video i can document it and let you guys know if there's any issues that arise if there anything comes up i'll make sure to put it in the comment section or in the description and i'll make sure to let you guys know how long the unit lasted me that is if i run into any issues so that is going to be the end of this video in the comment section below let me know what you liked what you didn't like and what you thought i could have done better and i'll see you all in my next video

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hi everybody i'm scott and uh today i have a pile the this thing called pile power sequence controller it makes a lot of interesting promises and it has interesting specifications on amazon which is why i bought this thing i'm gonna guess and i'm sure i'm not the first one to ever make this pun that is a pile of crap just based on looking at it it actually has reasonable amazon reviews because it probably does what it says to an extent but um wagering it's not all it's cracked up to be so let's take a look inside but first i just want to walk you through this amazon listing so it's a 10 outlet power sequencer now power sequencer means that it turns on usually one outlet at a time so that for example if you have things with a high startup load or well for whatever reason you just want things to start up in a sequence it'll like turn on channel one then channel two then channel three and so forth all the way presumably through channel ten and it'll do that presumably when you turn the unit on now i haven't looked into exactly how this thing works but that is my understanding the very first thing you'll see is that all of the outputs all the receptacles are the international multi-connector kind and those are notoriously shall we say dangerous um yeah and kind of odd they don't regionalize this product so uh that was my first tip off that this might be crap second tip off is this random five volt usb port i mean why like that's just that they could say it has a usb port and really just adds expense to this unit that should otherwise probably be cheaper than this but we'll find out about that in a few another thing that tipped me off to its potential shittiness is the word conditioner now to me a power conditioner means something that has some kind of filtering or other sort of like spike suppression stuff like that um i kind of doubt this has that but let's see we'll find out this is what really caught my eye 13 amp 2000 watts now that doesn't make sense at either 120 or 240 volts or 230 volts or any normal household or business voltage i don't know why they're making that claim especially since this is being sold in north america because 13 amps should be about 1500 watts at 120 volts so i don't know where they're getting the 2000 figure from rack mount sure it looks rack mountable that's uh that's good pro we'll see audio digital power supply controller regulator with voltage readout regulator now that would imply to me that if you have an under voltage or over voltage it would compensate for that i sincerely doubt this does that but hey maybe now voltage readout certainly seems to have that surge protector well maybe those are cheap and easy enough to implement so i wouldn't be surprised um and home theater stage and studio use this isn't the kind of product quality wise i would necessarily use for a stage production um but you know we'll see so scrolling down it kind of just repeats what says it has safety spike and surge overload protection so and it protects from noise interference which basic spike and surge protection will not uh voltage fluctuations and electrical surges i really doubt that part but again we shall see here's another interesting contradiction max power 2000 watt outlet 6000 watt unit uh maybe at a really high voltage uh i don't know man i would not say this is a power conditioner well again we'll see now two front panel always power outlets those are always on i assume and the eight rear panel power supply outlets i would wager are the sequenced ones which is kind of misleading because it says 10 outlet power sequencer conditioner but only eight of those outlets i guess are sequenced so that's that's just a little sketch i don't like that and then you can see the custom reviews are actually pretty good with 115 ratings so it's probably not all shills um i'm assuming it does what it says to an extent i'm just thinking it does not have all the features it claims to have and that my friends is what we're here to find out so let me get this thing open and uh get to it now first of all this is probably a customer return because it has additional tape over the original tape so right away i mean that kind of ticks me off because i did buy this thinking would be brand new not open box but you know amazon has a tendency to do that a lot i mean a lot holy crap that is a thick cord wow um i mean first of all it has a standard 15 amp nema plug so this would be rated for 120 volts at 15 amps which would be 1850 watts but it does give the conductor diameter in metric six millimeters squared i have no idea offhand what the conversion is six millimeters square yeah it says it's 10 gauge it looks about the thickness of a cable that could have 10 gauge wires inside i am going to open it up and we'll see for ourselves but if it is a 10 gauge wire that's actually kind of impressive i wonder what the inside is wired like that's what i'm really curious about okay comes with a handy little leave a review reminder and uh and uh one page of instructions which i'm gonna ignore okay i mean if this was a customer return it looks fine let's get that noisy bag out of the way okay looks like it's in good shape has a bit more weight to it than i expected but not as much weight as i expect from a uh proper power conditioner something like a lot of capacitors and a transformer perhaps inside so yeah standard 19-inch rack mount um not that deep reasonably enough before i open it up i guess i owe it to them to actually uh plug it in and test it so i'm i'm gonna hold it up and let's see what happens when i plug it into some uh power okay i hear relays clicking uh it seems to be sequencing these uh leds in the front and it's saying 118 volts i wonder how accurate that is 118 volts and i'm gonna grab a good old tektronix old fashioned meter to test this out and i'm going to stab my probes into the electrical outlet 118 volts all right well enough so uh yeah it seems to work i'm not gonna bother plugging a whole bunch of crap into it i'm really just interested to see what's inside and uh i did hear really his click so that's a plus not big into manually unscrewing things so let's just whip these right out and uh hopefully i can just yep punch right through that label oh i'm some kind of idiot i left this thing plugged in wow that was extremely dumb oh and of course they are um hex screws great one second wow for the eighth time the fiesta resistance well for the ninth time the ps3 stones oh wow that is bare bones holy all right so let me walk you through what we have in here uh what we have is fairly simple there is no power conditioning or surge suppression or anything whatsoever um it appears that the power comes in here goes straight onto the live and neutral terminals this is labeled neutral so presumably this long bus bar is neutral and then live goes on to this pad here and then i'm not sure how that's routed it's probably a double-sided board but we'll see and then there's a ground bus bar here so there's absolutely no filtering power conditioning surge suppression spike protection i mean like this is this is quite literally just false advertising because that this connects directly to the outlets and then the outlets in the front are just wired off those same bus bars and come straight here for their always-on capabilities so uh yes that is not really a surprise but kind of amusing i guess so the neutral bus bar is the unswitched part it goes straight to one of the pins on the power connectors and the live bus bar is controlled by each of these black relays and each of those black relays is in turn controlled i guess through this black ribbon cable which goes to the front panel which has a very simple circuit board that's hard to see in this shot but i will uh provide you with more details on that shortly and then it appears so the voltage the voltage monitor on the front panel right there is just tied onto the uh bus bars also for live and neutral so it's a self-contained unit and i think i've seen these on like bang good and stuff before in fact i might own one and so interestingly even though it has like a fairly chunky power switch in the front that power switch is a soft switch that goes to the front panel circuit board so these outlets always have neutral and ground connect well ground kind of goes without saying but always has neutral connected and i would just be interested to see if this plug is wired properly so that neutral is actually neutral so uh let's do this the dangerous way and i will plug this in keeping my hands well clear of the inside of this thing there are better ways to test this of course but you know there are less those are less fun ways so let me put this on the neutral or what should be the neutral because it's unswitched and just touch that to the ground all right good at least we're not seeing any voltage there so apparently then if i monitor between the live and the neutral bus we get 119 volts back to 118 that's fine that is good at least uh the plug is wired correctly such that neutral is actually neutral because this is clearly done in the factory like this is just put on depending on i guess which region this is being sold in and so if this plug was wired incorrectly in the factory let's say by accident that could mean you have uh live going to all these connectors at all times even when you think the unit's off so let's just see how does this come off okay i actually made a reasonable attempt at uh making this connection solid i was worried that they were just going to take the bare copper wire or aluminum wire we'll see from this cable and just try to screw it onto these terminals and with 10 gauge wire that that would not work very well um but i'm glad to see they actually crimped on connectors and are they ringing or are they and yes i'm using a drill for everything even this yeah they're ring connectors not spade connectors for extra um for extra tight connections so i'm actually pretty pleased with the way this is wired but again i mean they're using red and bl and blue as live and neutral and red is live which kind of makes sense because it's like the you know angrier of the colors but again if someone in the factory just got those backwards or you know if you've ever wired a plug like this you know how it depends like these wires are twisted inside the cable if you happen to cut this at a certain point like you want the ground on the bottom and it could be that these two conductors are reversed and uh yeah i just i don't know how much i trust that but we got to assume they're uh they know what they're doing right the relays are labeled arrow speed arrow speed t90 12 volt a4p and these are rated at normally closed 30 amps 240 volts normally open 40 amps 240 volts so at least these have the correct rating i mean in fact with this 10 gauge cable i mean this thing could theoretically be rated for 30 amps based on these relays i don't know if the circuit board can handle that kind of current but um i'm at least impressed that this thing looks like it can handle a decent amount of current uh but again that would depend on how how good these traces are and i will test that later i think by putting a very heavy load on this perhaps before i destroy this uh end connector and the wiring oh and i didn't address this board here this appears to just be a low voltage power supply for the front board and the usb port and in fact let's see how much voltage that's kicking out so 12 volts going from this power supply to the front panel and that makes me curious how uh how much voltage regulation is actually on the usb port i mean it says 5 volts okay the usb port is reading 4.985 volts which is reasonable enough um that's fine with me i'm i'm curious how it will perform under load and now let's switch it back to ac i just want to really quickly check to make sure the ground actually goes through to these plugs and if it does then we should get oh well would help if it was on then we should be getting 120 volts between live and ground and we are that's always a good thing one thing i don't like about this design is that the ground bus bar is soldered onto the connectors and not in a very robust way like mechanically these solder joints don't look great so i could see this suffering from cracking and possible separation leaving these receptacles ungrounded or at least some of them and certainly an overload over heat condition that's really awful this solder could melt and then just destroy the ground and in fact you know the um the incoming ground wire is just soldered onto this bus bar with a big blob and the chassis ground appears to be this yellow conductor that goes down to a pad on the circuit board which then appears to get screwed into the chassis in fact there is some bare metal on the chassis let's see if like inside one of these screw holes where it's not powder coated if i get continuity between live and ground and we see 120 volts yes we do okay so the chassis is grounded that's always a good thing i know i could have tested continuity rather than actually running 120 volts through that but for those of you that perhaps would just prefer to see straight up continuity i will touch the ground bus bar and there we go we got 2.3 ohms but that's close enough to a solid connection for my taste now another thing i'm noticing is that despite the robustness of the incoming power cable these cables here seem to be very thin this wire is actually labeled an american gauge and it says 18 gauge so i'm kind of just going to assume that that's correct because this looks like 18 gauge wire in fact you can see the end of it there so this is 18 gauge wire but you have the potential for up to 15 amps being synced by that receptacle either receptacle in the front because there is absolutely no overload protection over current protection there's no fuse in here at least not on the mains no circuit breaker nothing of the sort so if there's any kind of short circuit in here or overload condition these wires would probably just melt in fact it might be fun to later hook a couple of space heaters up to these two uh and do it outside and just see what happens and i disconnected power to it i kind of want to see if these relays are operating normally open or normally closed and i think the easiest way to test that is this can be to remove this connector or this connector either one just disconnect the front board although it does appear to be glued quite solidly hopefully this knife can convince the glue that it uh shouldn't do its job anymore let me just i might have to do this on the other connector though if it's glued on the other side which it probably is yeah that doesn't want to budge but this one i can actually get to both sides of the connector so it would help if i was in shot at least somewhat for this all i'm doing is running my knife along the edge here where it's glued which will hopefully be enough to release it yeah there we go i'm not too bothered if i damage the connector anyway because i'm not going to be i'm not going to be in any way using this thing in real life so you know this is kind of just for show and uh for curiosity's sake all right so now let's see if it sequences or if the receptacles just come on uh set it to ac volts and then nope no power okay so they must be normally open which i guess makes sense i mean that would be desirable and they should all click oh yeah nice and satisfying right there now another thing i'm curious about is if they got the polarity reversed on the receptacles i actually didn't even check that so again let's just see which one is live so this one here is live on the left side but this is upside down yeah that is correct okay so i do have the live on the correct side on this that's uh good to know that they didn't screw that up so let me just summarize what we've learned so far compared to what's in the amazon listing there is absolutely no filtering surge spike protection voltage regulation or any sort of power conditioning literally the input goes straight from the mains which i should turn off before i go poking around in here goes straight from the mains to the receptacles on the front and back so there's absolutely nothing between that except some relays and relays are not going to do anything that was promised in that listing what we've also found is that although the circuit board may in fact be rated to supply a full 15 amps because for north america because this has a 15 amp plug on it this thing should be able to handle 15 amps end to end and in fact i would consider it to be a fire hazard if it doesn't and i'm going to say that the circuit board these tracks look pretty thick i mean i'm gonna guess that they will actually carry 15 amps at 120 volts but these wires may not do it so well they may overheat the insulation may melt we'll see the only way to know for sure is by throwing 15 amps through it a properly rated device at 15 amps should have at least 14 gauge wire i know wire specifications for panel wiring are you know can be a little thinner but it really depends on whether it melts down in real life or not and uh if these solder connections melt and come loose and the wires just sort of go everywhere that would be interesting too because that could cause a nice short circuit with the case and who knows what else that would do that kind of testing i will do outdoors in case it does in fact go aflame and i will certainly not do it in the middle of night right now while my wife is sleeping because the smoke detectors will wake her up and she'll be not happy about that but like i said i am curious about the usb connector so let's see what kind of usb output this thing provides okay so i whipped out my giant uh heat sink and fan beset load tester which has usb inputs and i've hooked it up to the usb output on this device and that screen is kind of hard to read but i'm hoping we can muddle through here and right now i have it set to 100 milliamps and once i hit the on button it's going to start drawing 100 milliamps in just a second and you can see the voltage dropped to 4.7 volts off of just 100 milliamps that is pretty bad now if i increase the current a little more 200 milliamps we drop to 4.5 volts 300 milliamps 4.2 400 milliamps 4 volts i mean like 500 milliamps we're already in a range where like most usb devices won't even work let's just oh wow the whole thing shut off as you saw the leds go out when as soon as i uh i guess it overloaded the 12 volt power supply that's in there i'm gonna guess that's what happened let's try this again let's uh let me bring it up a little more slowly we'll start with 400 milliamps okay 500 milliamps 600 milliamps 700 yes 700 mil amps it cuts out that that is just pathetic um i was actually going to hook up an oscilloscope and see how clean the usb power coming out of this was but um i kind of don't care i mean it's a pretty useless usb port i guess would be fine if you had like a little led gooseneck light you wanted to hook up to see you know stuff in your rack as long as it drew less than 700 milliamps you'd be fine and it doesn't matter how messy the power is but that is um not pleasant and i mean the voltage drop even just getting up to 700 milliamps is ridiculous i mean you're basically good with maybe like 200 milliamps before the voltage gets too low to run most usb stuff off of so um yeah as i posited in the beginning the usb port is just for show i wouldn't actually rely on using it to charge anything or to uh power anything unless something charges at a very low current like 100 200 milliamps then i guess it would be fine i did put the cover back on though for safety with a couple of screws just so that i didn't accidentally go poking in there while it's live you never know all right through the magic of video it is the next day and my face is magically shaved so that's cool i guess if you cared um and we're here with our friend the pile of crap and it actually isn't as crappy as i thought it would be because i did take it out in the backyard and i tested it at up to 24 amps and it actually did not melt down the wires got quite hot in fact um yeah burning to the touch but the insulation didn't melt and it held together quite well so let me show you what i did so here we have the setup i have a 30 amp power supply coming into this thing which has nema 515rs for some reason um really it's horribly unsafe because this is capable of providing up to about 3 600 watts of power and uh yeah it's got this thing plugged into it the pile oh crap and it's going straight through the bus bar and here i started out by testing out um the space heaters plugged into the power sequencer ports and that didn't result in anything significant happening it got a little warm over here where the where the live and neutral come in but uh nothing too dramatic so then i moved on to testing with the front ports which are just wired via these 18 gauge cables or these 18 gauge wires rather which i was hoping would be more dramatic than it was but you can see here i am pushing about 2650 watts through this thing which is about 24 amps give or take um the power meters were a bit hard to see uh yeah you can't really make that out too well so i well zoom and enhanced it as best as possible so you can actually make out some of the numbers and i took some thermal image readings of the entire thing and the actual wiring here got pretty warm uh 118.5 degrees c max right at this solder joint where the live meets the bus bar and as you can see the wire itself here is pretty hot both the live and the neutral as was the bus bar i also looked around for the peak amount of heat and i found it right about here at these last couple of relays and you can see just in this corner it's 120 degrees c but it looks like it's about 120 degrees c through all these live connections which presumably sort of go from one to the other to the other all the way down to here i'm actually pretty pleased with the whole thing because it did survive i'm still a little sketched out by having 18 gauge wire for something that could theoretically have well up to i guess 2400 watts uh plugged into it if this thing were on a 20 amp circuit and you actually load everything on the front receptacles which is fairly unlikely and like i said it did survive that was with the case off i did test it with the case on and it didn't melt down there either but it did get quite a bit hotter and the wiring got a little bit discolored actually the blue isn't quite as vibrant as it used to be um the red's fine though and maybe the blue feels just a little bit stiffer than it did before but no signs of burning no signs of anything uh catastrophic happening so again i'm honestly surprised um and pleasantly surprised by this thing the current handling capacity on the back of this thing and the receptacles here um i didn't max out a single receptacle but i maxed out these two again at about 2650 watts between the two of them and uh other than some heats on the bus bar it was all right you know so now i figure let us take a look at each of these circuit boards yeah all right so i think the best way to attack this rear circuit board it can't actually be removed completely from this back plate because the receptacles are soldered into the board itself and they're soldered sort of there are slots cut in the board and then the pins from the receptacles go into those slots it's very hard to see here i'm going to put a picture right now of a close-up so you can see that and when you're putting it together that would be very easy because you just put the board into position and then blob some solder on each of these the solder is going to go down below these uh pins and so to desolder it i would actually have to get underneath the board so which is actually possible due this design because it's got three screws along here and that should take off this entire back plate which should liberate the circuit board and then we can check it out and it's going to stay soldered to these front receptacles which i could remove all these connectors here but uh i don't know that it'll be necessary since we just need to take a look at the bottom of the board i don't think the bottom of this board is going to be anything terribly interesting okay oh the board also needs to be unscrewed from the chassis itself because there are a couple of screws at this end right there and likewise a couple screws at this end and then i can take this connector out actually at least i was able to get it out last night there we go and now this board and this whole assembly in the back actually is free and i'm just going to flip it right over i could take a closer look so yeah along the whole back of this are two bus bars which are and the neutral actually looks like it's on top and the bottom so there's the neutral and the live is right below it and the live comes into this bar right here which is kind of a bit awkward because the neutral is actually doubled up on both sides of the board but the live is not and so you can see the live kind of proceeds along here and then it goes to each of the relays here so under this solder mask there's a little bit of a trace well it's the thicker than i wouldn't call it a trace because it's pretty damn thick and then same here same here and so forth it's pretty much uh identical for each relay and then the switch side of the relay is this pin here which if we go over on top this would be the where the switch pin of the relay comes up and then it goes to the input of the receptacle then as for the low voltage portion we can see this is where that connector comes in that i just pulled out from the front board and it's pretty simple in that each of these just goes to one of the relays uh really magnet terminals and then from the other terminal we just come back to a common um negative more common positive i'm actually not sure which but regardless the circuit is very simple it's just this one common connection it's this pin here that goes up and around then hits this one goes up and around hits this one and then so forth and then each of the other pins goes to each of the other relays so very simple construction again as we can see absolutely no filtering or conditioning or surge suppression or spike protection on the underside of this board there's really not much of anything other than these bus bars whose separation really actually isn't all that great i mean i'm sure it's fine it's just uh i would say that's about two millimeters right there of separation uh not horrible but they do have a cut out there they do have a cutout with a live and neutral come in um but that's about it so they do look fairly robustly soldered to the board at least that's good and then this little power supply board just taps off a neutral connection here and a live connection here as does this uh front panel indicator of the voltage as for this power supply there's really nothing revolutionary or interesting going on here it looks like a standard switch mode power supply it looks like this this does have some filtering i suppose like the power comes in here and looks like there's an inductor there's a filtering capacitor smoothing capacitor um so you know i guess maybe they get around it from a marketing perspective by saying by meaning that that tiny little board that does the uh 12 volts for the front panel and therefore the 5 volts for the usb has filtering and power conditioning but i believe the marketing material said it conditions and power protects your equipment protects your equipment i mean i guess equipment plugs the usb socket yeah i'm not buying it either but i would like to get a closer look at this front board so let me take that out i don't think the drill in this case is quite going to work out for me actually you know when he commits using the drill you might as well use the drill this entire front this front panel actually does come off just uh via these screws in the front but i think in this case it just makes more sense to take the board out itself okay three screws and it is liberated so on this side of the board in the front it really is not much to look at it's the usb port and the leds which have these long standoffs i don't know oh the only i think the only reason for those long standoffs is so that because the length of the usb connector so that when this board is sitting here the leds are just poking out the front as is the usb connector because the leds were flush to the board the usb connector would stick out quite a bit and that would look weird so the standoffs and the leds and the standoffs in the case here the entire purpose for those and actually let me just brighten up this image a little bit i apologize for uh having such a dim image that's much better and these standoffs in the front those are all just to accommodate the fairly useless usb port which in my opinion they should have just omitted from this product entirely it's really not necessary at all but hey it's a it's another feature you can put on your declaration of what your product is the product description all right i'm just going to take these connectors off so we can take a closer look at the chips on here i have a feeling it's just going to be a fairly generic microcontroller and uh maybe some kind of timer chip but uh we'll see it's really a good job they glued all these connections in i mean it actually not actually is good it's just a pain to s for me but it means they're less likely to come loose during shipping or whatever so can't blame them for this it's actually a sort of mark of quality that they bothered to glue these connectors in they're just higher quality locking connectors would probably be better but hey there we go there is the circuit board liberated so here at the end we have the 12 volt in then the next connector is the switch it looks like here we have a voltage regulator for usb stuff along with the capacitor for smoothing i assume and the i think that's a microprocessor the uln 2803ag and there's this oh that's this is probably the microprocessor the stm whatever the hell that is and then this end of the board of course we have the connector that goes to the relays and if you want to see the front of the board close up well here it is not terribly exciting okay so i looked it up and the uln 2803a is a darling darlington transistor array which is used to drive the relays and conveniently there are eight transistors in this array and eight relays i'm sure that's not a coincidence the other package the stm8s003f3 is indeed a microcontroller uh eight bit eight kilobytes flash 16 megahertz cpu surprisingly fast for this application and integrated eprom so yeah quite exciting right there and this is the 20 pin package in this model range so yeah that's the skinny on the circuit board uh if you want close-up picks or whatever if you want to trace it out uh go to s dot co dot tt slash pile oh crap yeah that's what i'll make the url i haven't actually made it yet you know and like i said i'm not going to really get into the um display here in the front because this is just a very generic sort of module that you can buy off banggood or ebay or anywhere pretty much that just measures voltage off of two inputs that connect conductors that power it and provide of course the voltage that it's measuring um not too much else to see not too much else of interest that we haven't already covered so thank you for watching i've been scott and um uh hang on there uh me i guess i have a little bit of an epilogue to this there's a couple things i didn't mention in the original video and i was editing it and i realized i left this out one of the things is the plug and besides the fact that just looks a little sketchy um i did the thing that you're not supposed to do that everyone does and i pulled the plug out from a receptacle by its cord and well you can see yeah there's uh no strain relief whatsoever and there's really not much between you and the conductors internally if this just gets pulled out a little bit and uh yeah that's that's quite sketchy so i'm not too happy about that the other thing that i wanted to look at was the little switch mode power supply that's in there now i'm not going to go into great depths analyzing it but i do just want to see one thing and that is the amount of clearance between the live conductor here particularly and the chassis itself because it's soldered from underneath and uh i just want to see how much space there is how much clearance they've allowed there all right see there's some rather thick blobs of solder on there not huge you can see they don't stick down terribly more than any of the other contacts under here but there's only about i would say from these standoffs maybe half a centimeter maybe so five millimeters of clearance and this seems to be a good two millimeters maybe of solder right there so it's a bit of a close clearance to the bottom of the chassis it's not horrible it's not anything worse than how tight the um bus bars were on the back so uh not awful but i would like to see a piece of either thick cardboard or plastic between this and the chassis itself because the circuit board was only held on with two screws and if it were to flex or anything like if anything were to get behind there like for example if a screw would come loose when these standoffs were to come loose because of the welding failed and it was rolling around in there well i mean that would short straight to the board and straight to the case so yeah not ideal but not the worst thing i've ever seen either oh and the other thing i failed to establish was whether there was uh there were aluminum conductors in this cable or copper [Music] you know what i'm going to do i'm actually just going to chop the end off this because i would rather replace it with a different plug anyhow so uh and it does certainly look like copper it also doesn't really look like it's uh 10 gauge or 6.2 millimeters squared um one second so this is some wire i got from a reputable supplier and uh yeah the conductors this is genuine actual 10 gauge wire and let me focus on that and you can see these conductors are quite a bit thicker than these conductors i would say this is more like 12 gauge than 10 gauge so i believe this cable also appears to be something of a lie um as long as that conversion table i found from about six millimeters squared to 10 to gauge was accurate um either way the thickness of these two cables on the outside is very similar so it wouldn't be hard to imagine this is in fact a 10 gauge cable but uh yeah it uh appears to be more like 12 gauge so that's interesting i guess anyway that is all for this video thanks for watching i've been scott and um if you like the video then like the video that's a weird thing to say but i guess that's the way it works and if you subscribe the video subscribe the video no no that doesn't work i gotta go you

what's shaking gang mr jeff here and um yeah it's uh been a minute since i've done a video hopefully everyone's well out there and being safe with all this craziness that's going on in the world so what are we going to talk about today well today i figure we're going to talk about power conditioners now i mean a power conditioner isn't exactly the most exciting piece of gear you're ever going to buy but trust me it's very important and you're definitely going to want to have a couple in your studio and i'm going to give you three simple reasons why so if you go digging around the internet and forms and whatnot looking for information about power conditioners you can end up down a really deep rabbit hole really quick do they actually clean up the power in your house are they worth it are they just a waste of money blah blah blah blah so we're gonna skip all of that mumbo jumbo not even worth getting into all we're gonna do today is just go over some common features that you'll find in most power conditioners that you can buy and then three very simple reasons as to why you should own at least one and have one in your studio if for no other reasons at all so with that said let's get into it all right so what exactly is a power conditioner for those of you who don't know essentially at its core power conditioner is nothing more than a power bar that you'd find at walmart or whatever just in a rack form has wall outlets in it most of them can clean up dirty electrical signals and it goes in a rack case so typically speaking most of them usually have eight outlets on them others might have a ninth one usually in the front and then the rest being in the back some of them like a couple of mine will have wall wart spacing on the back so by that i mean on the back four the outlets will be pushed close together and then the other four will be spaced further apart so if you've got things that are wall warts that you need to plug in it gives you that additional room so you're not losing a couple outlets for one unit you got to plug in some of them on the front panels will also have lights that you'll be able to pull out and turn off and on that way if it's in the top of the rack and you've got some more gear underneath and you need to illuminate it a little bit to help you see it better you can pull those lights out and turn them on and then to varying degrees they will all generally clean up the electricity in your house or whatever's plugged into it to some degree all right so now that we've gone over the gist of what a power conditioner is let's go over the three simple reasons why you should own at least one in your studio if for no other reason other than the three that i'm about to give you all right so reason number one clean and organized so basically you have two options here you can have regular power bars laying on the floor cables running all over the place for them big ugly mess the potential to trip over some of these cables you don't want that power conditioner just goes right in the rack case everything's plugged in in the back clean neat hidden out of the way you don't have to look at cable mesh you don't have to worry about tripping over power cables unplugging something accidentally and just that simple thing in its own can make your studio just look and feel that much more professional reason number two would boil down to having separate power conditioners for different pieces of equipment alright so so what do i mean by that all right well i've got three of these things and each one has its own specific job and purpose so for my setup power conditioner number one is where the computers external hard drives my audio interface things that stay on 24 7 are all plugged into the first power conditioner my second power conditioner is where the studio monitors plug into so my sub the monitors maybe lights i don't need on all the time like the lights above these uh cabinets over here so this way when i want to turn my studio monitors on and off or things like that instead of having to walk up to each individual thing and turn all these different power switches on everything's plugged into one power conditioner i just flip the switch on the front of it everything's on or everything's off super simple a lot easier than trying to turn on and off all these different various pieces of equipment you might have in the studio and my third power conditioner is where all of my guitar amps plug into now all of my amps are tube amps and if any of you have ever plugged the tube amp into some dirty ac outlets you'll know because as soon as you turn the amp on it's just gonna [Music] make this horrible horrible hum so that's why all of my amps are plugged into their own separate power conditioner that way it eliminates any chance of them humming and that that's really the gist of it at the end of the day now some power conditioners can be upwards of like two thousand dollars sometimes they could be mega bucks each of mine canadian were about 120 dollars so i mean you don't need to break the bank to get a power conditioner or two i've had mine for years they just do what they do they work they never give me a moment's headache so there you go three simple reasons to have a power conditioner or more in your studio and with that said it's been good seeing you guys way too long take care of yourselves and be safe in this wacky whatever the hell is going on in this world world we live in right now and i'll see you guys in the next video i've been mr jeff and i'm out see ya

hai hai hai hai halo halo semua jumpa kembali di channel naudio Selatan kembali di video saya teman-teman yang sudah subscribe yang belum langsung saja sekarang subscribe Oke teman-teman semuanya pada video kali ini kita akan terjadi lihat sedikit sebentar review ini adalah alat power conditioner power conditioner pc801 merek ste comment ini alat berfungsi board ini arus listrik biar bersih biar enggak jadi mungkin kita kletek dari sinyal HP biasanya kena itu dengan alat ini teman-teman hilang bedingung Bilang kerja Kretek Edition sinyal yang liar itu Ini ada Hai ini output depan ya oh 270 walk-in ada USB 5volt ini 1ampere bisa buat ngecharge HP ini namanya dalam pun Man biar ditarik nah ini cari-cari hai Nia ini buat nyalain Lampunya di sini nih terus Putri ini nah ini tuh semampunya ya 6 punya duit jadi teman-teman Selain alat powerco disini berfungsi buat membersihkan arus-arus listrik juga bisa mempercantik tampilan dari rakyat asesoris insiden teman-teman ya Nah dalam punya ya jadi malam-malam bisa kita lebih keren ini display input ya inputnya segini Widya Maklumi siang segini PLN jadi nggak stabil sampai 221 kalau genset buat Lamongan masih stabil ya jadi penyanyi ada lampu Oke dimasukin lagi yang ori punya di belakang namun ada opponent bakal dikejar oleh juga bagian belakangnya Ini harganya satu juta teman-teman kelautan temen mau pesan juga bisa ke saya nah ini powerboat belakang ya Seandainya ini kalau posisi sekarang Baduy yang Rp nggak nggak nyala aja kau ke belakang pengen keluar arus listrik Hardi keatasin nah ini segini baru nyala dia belakangnya hot punya dua kamu keselnya Coba lihat langsung belakang aja ya nah ini namanya bagian belakangnya ada outputnya 123456788 output belakang ini bisa langsung colokan dari mana bisa Yang colokan tiga sektor yang 1300 kesini Hai Oke ini ada kapasitasnya Hai jadi satu alat ini kapasitasnya 15 ampere total G bisa dipakai buat aksesoris yang dengan kayak mixer kayak mesin microleaves kayak manajemen equalizer manajemen segala macamnya bisa masuk ke sini dan teman kalau power nggak bisa ya kan nggak kuat fasilitas nyaman 15 cuma 15 sampai kapasitasnya tanaman buah sore saja sosial yang memproses sinyal sinyal datanglah Hai bisa masuk ke sini semuanya oh review singkat ini Power condenser mereka cx-01 ini bisa temannya Indonesia Oh ya ini ada ada buku panduan pengguna Ini ada kartu garansi juga dari stx langsung oh Teteh majikan Luffy kali ini Terima kasih teman-teman sudah menonton sampai jumpa di video-video berikutnya bye

hello there my name is christos daesil Arno's I am the domestic sales manager for Furman sound today we're here at the Sweetwater headquarters showing off some of our new products what we have here is part of our classic series this is the PL plus DM CPL for our famous pull out lights with dimmer control and on/off switch DM for our dual meters so we have a digital voltmeter that you can switch over to monitor current as well we also have in the voltmeter module our diagnostic lights protection ok indicator letting you know that your protection hasn't been compromised and a voltage range indicator that changes color due to the input voltage but it's really what's inside the box that makes a big difference we have an example of our SP circuit right here this is our series multistage protection circuit it has our extreme voltage shut off so it disconnects from the line when the voltage goes over 137 it also has our non sacrificial surge suppression so we have shipped 300,000 circuits without one single failure due to surge and it also has our linear filtering technology to reduce transverse mode noise and that circuit can be found in all of our classic series and prestige models if you have questions you can go to Sweetwater comm or better yet call your sales engineer today at 1-800 to 2 to 4700 once again I'm Christo's until next time take care

hello my name is Shawna Cole and I'm the product manager for Fuhrman at Qualifier we're here at integrate 2017 at the qualify booth we have some Fermin products on show here Fuhrman are world renowned for their range of power conditioners voltage regulators and smart sequences if you've got dirty power duty current that needs to be cleaned up if you've got high-end audio visual equipment that you need to take care of and you need to power condition Fuhrman is the best way to do it for more information about Fuhrman please visit the qualify website at wwlp.com a you or come and see us at our integrate stand thank you very much

hi guys now in this episode I wanna show you something really really interesting I think [Music] I have here some kind of issue with my mains voltage in my studio because in the last week we installed a really big heavy Chinese air conditioner system and somehow time-to-time this digital controlled PDM created compressors inside and outside in air conditioner Sampo is interfering with my to stand light system and with few analog gears in my studio few days ago I almost ordered a really big beefy heavy power conditioner from the Foreman but you know almost eight months ago I purchased a really nice really professional a big and heavy rec cabinet system for my studio Space Station and this unit was inside and I completely forgot about it and find it again so I don't have to order nothing new power conditioner because I have here real beast of a machine now few words about this pro tech company those guys in our 80s 90s or even maybe in a 70s if I'm correct but they was a really famous really professional really high-quality custom builders for television and radio and music production studios in a past you know guys when the studios have worked with old-fashioned technology so with the analog but they already started to drop inside more and more and more digital solutions into the studios in that time the studios and the manufacturers they don't had full answer for every problem so this is when the product came to the picture to make special solutions for spatial really weird problems as so few products from them in the past mostly in company installations so again this video conferencing systems and VD and this is DN video picture taxi music taxis solutions from them and few powers which air solution but let me tell you guys those units from the protec in the past is built like a tank and this looks the always like industrial atomic reactor or something similar now I have from them he a really special power condition at what oh no let's say oh no next level yeah based on the cabling and on our technical papers what I find inside in my rekka minute I have a guest this is not only a polar filter conditioner whatever absolutely old-fashioned German something oh look at this we have in our pocket - really nice absolutely German switch and like a military finish on the front and it's really heavy it's about eighth kilogram we have two individual power input it is one output and other output really nice grounding point and money I see 13 outputs now this section here this four is direct output I think it's go together with this battery so like a main and the next section this tree here it has a five second delay and this one here this tree has a 10 second delay and yeah everything is just really old-fashioned really German quality also little bit like German danke now let me open it and I hope we see insides really simple but absolutely industrial kind of solution oh my goodness no I can understand the waiter they didn't play with garbage yeah let me go part by part on the quality now the C 20 connectors are made by a Beckman very nice and the C 13 output Connect was also made by Beckman a revealer the German company with all sorts of certifications and really high precision and quality control whatever and everything is just made in Germany so no Chinese zoom here now these guys this normal voice sockets okay they are made by Jung know the Jung is the other really professional really all the company here in Germany for mostly for home automation and for home electricity but of course they have industrial level of products so in the past I think the protec don't wanna play with your garbage so they dropped here absolutely beast German products everywhere now the cabling really nice job guys let me show you something you see this grounding point here so every connector and every point from the Boxee is connected right back to this bending post now this grounding point here is the same bending post like what you can use for a grounding of your gears a really nice job and they did every cable and every connection on a proper way let me show you this for example half even if the top rate is really clearly heavy metal and everybody is matter so there is a really nice connection between the two plate but they don't play it with the garbage and they don't want to take a risk so they did here again a proper grounding cable as a extra look at this nowadays nobody is paying a big attention for this kind of details yeah it's even it looks weird so not so elegant and not so electronic PCB and processors whatever this here is a pure black magic of mains voltage and earth ah for single-phase no these connectors it's it sends a feeling like some sort of ceramic but this is plastic definitely but I think it's it's reinforced with some really weird muttering uh really hard guys it's it's really hard even this screwdriver is just it's just running on it it's like like a glass and I cannot do even a scratch on it let me take out one cable really nice so it's a right size from this copper tube and it has a small insulator insulator here on the end really nice now the output connectors the bridged together with this heavy big beefy copper Rhodes so yeah we can call these roads it's about two millimeter something like this just attention on on a details maybe you guys can see I hope you guys can see from the top line they went to the bottom line with the additional hard cable connection but this copper rod is placed inside into this glass fiber high temperature high voltage the insulator tube over it is this and I used different color for the new land for the sorry for the nool and for the face and the same story here with the earth so this is a hard copper wire you know in a glass fiber tube which is colorized there I think I can learn from them and this switch is a proper switch so is switching together the nool and the face and all the cables is just fixed to the case everywhere maybe you can see here huh I think the cabling is it's it's done on a proper way oh my goodness look at this theater and not hundred percent sure about this ee logo here but if i remember good from washing machines the ee in a past is a part of the boss and Siemens corporation every bosch washing machine has inside at least one filter from the ee this is a monster here let me you know what for compression I think I have here somewhere a filter yeah here it is uh-huh it's the same so this is again made by this EE no this guy here this is a six amp mains filter for medical applications so now if I drop this guy to here now you can see how big is this one by the filter configuration the to filter is almost identical yeah mine was this double capacitor solution here is went to the hand this has a s plus and this also has a S Plus you know what I'm not hundred potential if this filter is made for medical applications yeah but you know protect I think they took the most highest quality filter from the market ah this is the timers made by article the article is the same really high quality really professional company like a Siemens these guys here mostly for home and industrial automation nowadays they have some new line which is the DX line so it's drastically increased the lifetime of your lamps of your motors of your digital really sensitive gives the television set of books computer whatever because every switching is happening when the voltage is on dual look at this old fashioned that year I think this is made in the 80s here you can set up the time which is now is staying on a five second and here with this next select or you can choose a multiplier if I multiply to this is 10 second the next one is set to five second and the multiplier is one so this is the five second line really very simple solution for this problem without any kind of CPU and microcontroller and magic and internet and Internet of Things this is how they solved in the past these two guys here it's a simple relay oh my god this protect you see this tree transformer looking something something here no don't be fool this tree guy here is not a transformer and not a coil this is a really interesting but industrial solution for a really special problem and no one can understand the semantics and technical specifications in my rec a Bennett these three guy is the answer so let me explain to you what is this here this box is containing armed electronic a relay and the negative thermal coefficient resist or so on the moment when this electronic inside is saying the voltage difference between the rule and the phase in this moment the relay is switched off but after 20 minutes a core 50 millisecond this electronic will engage the relay so it's been shortened out the NTC resistor between the input and between the output so what this will do if you have any kind of huge inductive or capacitive load on an output of whatever then what can happen when you switch on okay the voltage the mains voltage of course this heavy inductive load can cause a huge current Pike which is shifted from by some degree phase from the voltage and this spike can cause a lot of problem in your electrical system on other devices another situation let's say for example you have a synchronous sync remote or connected to the same network where it's all of your other studio gears which is which is my case now at the moment because of this air conditioner this ant is if you create a really nice ramp okay on a beginning of your power signal when you're switching on why because you know the NTC resistors they have a magic behavior so a normal resist or if you heat them up of course you increase the resistance now with the antisera stores this is completely opposite so as the temperature rising okay the resistance will go down so this is how these entities can do this really nice ramp on the beginning of the switch had power huh and after 50 minutes sack of course this mini computer here inside we're short and out this MTC register with the butene really and of course you can bind these guys nowadays from the hizmet and let me tell you each piece its costs around a hundred euro I have a guess each of the timer section so the five second and the ten second and the zero second got one now these two guy this one and this one is labeled as a service and these two connector are not a part of this filtering solution at all I think I will modify this a bit oh no way I don't need this so much service port maybe I will keep this one on a front for laptop and for other test gears but this backside I think this one I will connected to one of the the delay line maybe it will get a five second or 10 second or maybe the direct but why I need freaking power sequencer in my modern studio and why maybe you need also a power sequencer because of the computers let me explain to you your normal gears let's say amplifiers outboard effects digital to analog converters or your audio interface they have a really short boot time but your computer has at least like my one for example four and a half seconds something like this now what will happen if you switch on everything in a same time in your studio of course first the power amplifiers will wake up this is maybe your external amplifier or this is the built-in amplifier in your monitor speaker and then your audio interface and then your computer until that moment there is no digital signal there is no clock source there is an overclock no nothing but when your computer is finished the boot sequence and all the settings are load up and starting your audio interface then of course your speaker and your amplifier will get kind of bumpy noisy from your digital to analog converter now with this solution I can turn this table fully now what I will do with this sequencer in my case I will not touch my DW computer and my waves everyone meets a computer to the zero second output then I will hook up here all of my additional digital board gears and on the last one I will hook up all of my monitor speakers and my external amplifiers the computers will wake up let say in five second and after five second all of my additional digital gives and digital to analog converters will wake up and then when every clock signal and every digital signal is arrived to the right position with the right clock then just after then I will switch on my monitor my analog monitor controller and my monitor speakers on this way I will eliminate completely my boobs from my speakers and my really weird missing clock error signals on my quantum - mastering process or now compare this solution to the power conditioners what you can buy nowadays on a market I find some short but be nice video about Foreman power conditioners a guy is opened to different one one is commercial let's say like commercial leather and one is a professional level don't believe me no contest compared to this ah hi this is a video comparing to firming power amp conditioners you know this is what it looks like inside so that is a look inside the firming power conditioner and if I wanna buy now a heavy power conditioner Vida power sequencer I have to spend about 800 euro something like this and voila I got it for free in the next video I will drop this guy into my rack a minute i will do some rica billing works around my devices because with this solution I can solve money issues ah and stay tuned because I think this will be really interesting video huh I hope you guys enjoyed see you next time bye [Music] you guys don't know what is this huh this is a very famous very healthy desert fraud Hungary the origin Hungarian name is too low Rudy and this chocolate which is filled with curl it's in good condition and is in a right temperature then you have to see here oh my goodness nothing on a planet like this I'm telling you guys you have to find Toro Rudy which is made in a city of Marty soccer or eh it's meaning giant ax and this purchase is meaning like a dot that so this is a giant red dotted original to rule you if you are travelling to Hungary first what you have to drive is the original or eh purchase - oh Rudy nothing yes haha it's finished