Audio Equalizers

at the end of this video you'll know how to use an audio equalizer keep watching hey everyone its Elliott from filmora here to empower your inner video creator if you want more filming and editing tips and tricks don't forget to subscribe and hit that Bell button if you want instant notification on our latest video releases an audio equalizer or EQ is a tool you could use to bring out or softened low mid or high tones in your audio recording without getting too technical the EQ allows you to highlight certain sounds and hide others to understand how EQ can enhance your audio you'll need to start using it and today I'm going to show you how to do that in Fillmore 9 afterwards I'll share three common situations where you might want to use an equalizer for a YouTube video let's get started to find the equalizer just double click on the audio clip you want to edit that will open the audio editing menu in the top left portion of your screen next to equalizer click customize you'll see ten sliders the sliders towards the left or for low tones the sliders towards the right or for higher tones and the mid-tones are in the middle let's close this for a moment and listen to the audio are you afraid of heights I don't know let's go see okay now let's open the equalizer back up I'll make some changes and you'll be able to hear the effect after let's pull up these three sliders on the left and listen again are you afraid of heights I don't know you can hear how only the low parts of the audio have been emphasized that doesn't sound natural so let's go back into the tool in most situations when you need to turn up your low mid or high tones you're probably not gonna actually turn up only those tones instead you want to make a curve with the tone you want emphasize most at the top this will create a more natural sound are you afraid of heights now that you've seen the basics of how the equalizer works let's take a look at three ways you can use the equalizer to improve your YouTube video if you're filming in a location where you can't control the sound your mic picks up you might end up with some low tone noise such as wind or traffic or other background noise fencing you know just because Katie took Ben by pulling down the slider towards the left of the equalizer you can hide these noises if you turn down your low tones too much then your dialogue is starting to sound thin so make sure you're listening to your audio back and making adjustments if your dialogue starts to sound thin pull the low tones back up a bit fencing you know just because you need to fence if you have a lot of background noise you might use the denoise tool to remove it automatically similar to how you could turn your low tones down too much and need to adjust it the de noise tool can leave you with thin sounding audio after you use it if you open up the equalizer you'll be able to amplify the low tones again for more natural sounding dialog so here it is a lot of time when you're filming a video that is just primarily you talking to the camera you'll use background music however if the background music has strong low tones then the rhythm of the music can distract from what you're saying instead of switching songs you can use the equalizer to lower the bass in your music so it isn't competing with your dialogue so here it is have you ever used an equalizer and what do you do to make sure that your audio is great in your video let us know in the comments and if you want more video editing tips and tricks don't forget to subscribe until the next video keep creating

hi everyone and welcome to another episode of mr. Carlson's lab today we're going to repair an ADC equalizer there seems to be a problem with one channel only one channel seems to be working so grab your favorite snack sit back and let's take a journey through the circuitry of this equalizer together let's bring it back to life here you are sitting right at the bench with me and this is the ADC stereo frequency equalizer that has an issue it's called the sound shaper - - I see and it really is a nice looking equalizer they did a nice job on the aesthetics here I'll turn the unit on and you can see that all the little adjustments all light up that looks really nice and this here is a level meter that is supposed to work with the music so that should probably be a good indication of what channel is going to be working and what channel isn't supposedly just a channel is not working so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get some test equipment set up here and I'm gonna feed a signal into this thing and we'll determine which channel isn't working the first thing I'm going to do is verify that this equalizer is not working because much of the time devices get a thing called repairman syndrome what is repairman syndrome you ask well the owner of the device swears that the thing doesn't work you put it on your bench turn it on and everything works just fine and you're scratching your head and he's scratching his head so he takes the thing back home and it doesn't work again so then he gets frustrating he brings the thing back and then usually the second time it doesn't work this is an actual thing it's very strange and all the technicians and repairmen that are watching this out there will totally resonate with that so we want to make sure that the thing is actually not working first in in order for me to do that I need to feed a very low distortion signal source into this thing to do some testing so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use the curve and signature tracer over here because this has a very low distortion sine wave output available at this jack right here so this is one of the projects that has been built and put together up on patreon this is a five dollar oscilloscope with some modifications done inside so the first thing I want to do is protect this thing and we've also built a thing called a DC block and this thing here just blocks any DC from going back into this and damaging it so this protects this when you're using this on vacuum tube equipment or anything with high-voltage this thing also has got a slight modification to it now so there is an addendum that will be in the next video on patreon for all of you that have built this DC block there's a component added and what that does is it actually lowers the distortion even more at this point right here and when you plug this thing in it keeps the curve tracer slosh signature tracer out of sleep mode so when you plug this thing in it will stay awake and it will display a circle on the screen to let you know that you're using this thing as a signal source as you advance the game the circle will get bigger and smaller just like that so what I'm going to do now is plug this into this here so basically what this is gonna do is put some signal right here at these RCA jacks that you see here and I'm going to plug this into the backside of this equalizer here let's do this around here and it says input right here as you can see so what I'm going to do is just plug these in it doesn't matter it can be plugged in any old way because they're just bridge together at this wire right here and I'll just turn this back around again like so make sure that the gain is down and I will turn this on I'll turn the gain up it's just meter oat maybe we need this in there we go alright so we got left output here which is it half so I'll just turn that rate to its max and the meter for right is at its max and the meter for left is that it's max so turn the right output right up to its maximum and as you can see it's the right channel so no repairman syndrome today so we can see here that yeah there is signal on the left channel but not on the right so turn this down just a little bit so there it is alright so what we need to do now is remove the lid so what I'll do is I'll save you from the tedium of me taking screws out and things like that and I'll move the camera around here I'll remove the lid and we'll take a look at inside and I'll try to find a schematic for this thing as well and that'll help us along in our troubleshooting procedure no big deal if we can't find a schematic because we can just use this thing and it'll bring us right to the component really fast I managed to find a nice clean schematic for this equaliser they did a nice job in the design looks nice and sound they did a nice job drawing it up nice clean looking schematic but they forgot something so incredibly basic so we can see here we have two channels right very easy to spot the different channels because basically just look for similarities on each side right so we can see that we have one channel here and another channel right here and then we would also know that you know this is the equalizer with all the sliders for one channel and for the other channel now looking at this we know on the preamplifier from what we've tested so far is that the right channel doesn't seem to be working we're gonna perform one more test just to make absolutely sure that that channel is not working so I'll explain that here in just a moment stranger things have happened here and I'll explain a scenario that I've run across before as well kind of like repairman's in them right so looking at both of these channels and we know that the right channel is faulty right what channel is the right channel on the schematic nowhere on the schematic have they marked left or right there's differences in the part numbers between each channel so you know they've they've definitely done that we know on the equalizer itself that we clearly have a left and a right channel they haven't marked channel 1 in channel 2 so all the controls are you know LNR left and right and on the meters left and right and on the back the inputs and the outputs are left and right but on the schematic there is no parkings anywhere to which channel is left or right so say we definitely knew that the right channel is toast say this was the right channel we would know immediately to start testing at this point we could locate TR 102 and start testing at that point and just move our way along now this is easy enough to find out in the actual equaliser itself by just some basic tests but why not just put an L and an R or vice versa depending on which way the channels are in here and just simplify things again what's happened with the schematic is it's gone through too many hands and what ended up happening is the design team knew the part numbers and everything but when it ended up at the end of the line they're like well we know all the part numbers but what channel is actually left and which one is right Wow let's just leave it out that's usually what ends up happening right such an odd thing so at any rate we'll mark the L and the R or vice versa in here we find that out so any of you that are working on one of these things you just make things a little bit easier on you so it's very easy to spot two channels in this we can see we have similarities here and we have similarities here so we know that this is going to be one channel this is going to be the other we can see that we have the inputs and outputs here the inputs and outputs here and we have a cluster of switches in here and here so we have two separate channels right here and right here so we have an input right here so the input signal from the the curve tracer that we're using the low distortion signal source is going to go through here through this switching Network and it should end up at the base of this transistor right here so the signal path will be like this through here down through here through this op-amp we'll have signal here the signal will end up right here at the base of this transistor and then what they've done between this stage and this stage here is they've put the equalizer with all the sliders right between here and right here you see we have a row of op amps here and you can see that we have some leads running from the top here all the way down in through here and it does get kind of confusing when they put them all together like this so a trek is to follow this very carefully you can use a ruler or whatever if you very carefully follow the lines and then just put a color dot up here color dot for red and as you can see a little color dot for red here and then if we want to follow this one back we can see the green dot goes from here to here so we know that they've placed this between these two stages right here and it's the same for this channel here of missing I've marked a yellow dot here and a blue dot here yellow dot here and blue dot here now a lot of people they like to draw an entire red line and an entire green line that makes for a very messy schematic so just putting some dots is an easier and cleaner way of finding out where things go just a little hint a little trick if you're working on a condensed schematic now on the camera this schematic looks pretty big right but you can see compared to my fingernail here how small this symbol is for the transistor so this is actually a very small schematic to work with and I've magnified a certain area on the schematic and I'll explain that here in just a little bit that'll be the area that we're going to start troubleshooting first so we know that we have a signal path so far like this here here and then we have our equalizer here we're gonna have signal here and then our signal path is going to go here and it's going to end up here and it's going to go back out so this is going to be our output here and it's going to end up at the output through the switches here again at the out now one of the things that's very interesting about this and the they've designed this you can see that we have a red dot here red dot here green dot here green dot here so basically if any of this section fails we're still gonna have signal at this point right here we have a whole bunch of VRS across this thing here so unless there's a wire disconnected at this point or up here there's really that nothing that's going to really affect the signal like to the point to where it's completely gone like what we see so what we're looking for is a signal that looks to be completely missing on one channel so unless a wire is broken or there's traces broken up here or here we can pretty comfortably say that this is probably going to be okay so what we're going to do is we're gonna follow the signal at through this point through this point here to here and then we're going to follow the signal through there's a little fat right here we're gonna follow the signal right to the output on each one here and we'll find out where the signal is missing either on this channel or this channel again I don't know which one is right or left at this point right so we'll discover that one we're testing now here's the thing in stranger things have happened you know I talked about repairman syndrome right so we know that we fed a signal into this thing and it appears like the right channel isn't working so for argument's sake we'll just say that this is the right channel I don't know this at this point but we'll say this is the rate Channel okay so this channel here isn't working there's supposedly something wrong in this channel now stranger things have happened you can see I fed a signal into both channels and we saw that one meter was working and the other meter wasn't so there is a chance that the metering circuit isn't working and maybe the owner of this EQ has got a bad patch cable so we want to make doubly triply sure that we actually have no signal so before we actually start troubleshooting this whole thing I'm going to feed the signal into both inputs again through that connector like you saw and I'm going to put an oscilloscope on each output and we're gonna make sure that there's definitely no signal on one of the outputs or you know very little signal at least again you know we want to make absolute sure that we're you know hunting down a missing signal and you know maybe not a bad meter circuit or something like that so as I'm going through all that I'll explain all of that so that's what we're going to do next now what I've done is this is the section that we're gonna focus on here right because the chances of this being faulty or something wrong other than a wire missing is you know pretty much we can ignore this right so I've taken this and I've made it a lot larger just so it's easier for me to work with and easier for you to see and I'll flash this in front of the camera as I'm testing things as we're going along and I'll show you exactly what I'm doing as I'm going along here so what we'll do is again we'll put an input onto each one of these channels here and we want to look at the I believe it was the right channel again that had no output so we'll scope the right channel and make sure that that is missing first as you can see again nice and big and we'll just follow the signal through and find out where it goes missing or the signal goes missing is where we need to search a little deeper and find the problem wherever that may be whether it's in the switches or you know transistors op amps wherever right I have all the screws removed from the lid so let's take a look inside look at how nice and easy that comes off that's so nice common with basically all metal construction you can see that the face is nice and rigid and the chassis is very solid complete chassis on this thing a lot of modern gear has a plastic face and they have these little tabs that clip onto the lid where the lid will clip into those tabs and what that does is that holds the plastic face tight to the lid so it keeps that seam nice and tight so it looks really nice whenever you remove a lid it's almost like a step process on a piece of equipment like that that's the first thing I look for for signs of tampering is if any of those tabs are broken because unless you know how to actually take that lid off it's very easy to break those plastic tabs that hold the face tight to the lid and then of course you get that kind of sloppy seam after that because nothing is held tight anymore so something to keep in mind if you ever remove the lid from a modern piece of gear look for those broken if they're broken you know somebody's been in there at some particular time fooling around so as you can see this is all metal construction there's no need for those tabs or anything like that because this is just gonna fit tight to the lid when I removed all the screws from the case all the screws were nice and centered and the little holes in the lid so they did a really nice job putting this thing together everything was measured correctly that's always a good sign of design in a moment here what we're gonna do is zoom on in and take a look at the circuitry here and familiarize ourself with the circuitry before we start troubleshooting and that way we can go right to the area and troubleshoot the correct area without you know basically having to hunt around first it's always the first thing that you want to do is familiarize yourself find the area you want to troubleshoot in you know compared to the schematic the part numbers to the area and that way you'll get an idea of a path and what path to follow a little trick to make things just a little bit faster now if you're following along you're doing so at your own risk opening a case on a piece of equipment like this exposes AC and the older the piece of equipment they seem to be a little bit more I guess you could call it lacks with keeping the AC components and you know AC parts shielded as you can see in the back here we have an auxilary outlet in the back and there's exposed AC lines right here so if I was to come across that if this was plugged in you know I'd get a pretty bad shock and it could be lethal as well so if you're not familiar with working on a piece of equipment like this I strongly suggest you familiarize yourself with the technology of the air and the technology that you're working on before you go inside because you could receive a really really bad shock if you work on the wrong area come across something in the wrong area most modern equipment they shield they put heat shrink tubing or something over all the AC connections it's something that they do nowadays there still are exceptions though but the older the equipment is and the further you go back it's almost like they just expect you to know back then and you know you would just know that you know there's exposed AC there so again if you're following along you're doing so at your own risk please be careful and take care just before we get started in the trouble procedure let's make absolutely sure that the right channel is not working so if we look on the backside of the chassis here we can see that we have our input right here left and right then we have our output which will also be left and right this whole row is left in this whole row is right so we can get to the outputs on the inside of the chassis with an oscilloscope and what I'll do right now so I'll just plug my signal generator all I have the chassis up like this and like this now it doesn't matter which way the RCS go in because it just comes to a wire right here and we're feeding the same signal into both channels so it's down here again now in the back the wires are exposed to the outputs here so on the bottom we have a pink wire it looks to be a beige wire on the top so let's move this into here and I'll try and zoom on in just a little bit so you can see it's a pink wire here and they've used the wire wrapping technique that's what this is called right here wire wrapping so there's a lot of area for me to clip my Scylla school probe on to either channel and then there's the ground if I move this out of the way there's a ground right here so that's what I'll do right now is I'll just probe at that point that'll make my life a lot easier than trying to fit an RCA connection onto my oscilloscope so just back that out like so that should allow me to get an oscilloscope back there sculpt here my miniature CRT oscilloscope I really like this little scope gets lots of attention if you take this thing out in the public it's like a baby oscilloscope it's really cute so now what I'm going to do is first of all I'll turn on my isolated variac supply here so I'll turn that on right now and the switch is on so I'm doing good now I'll give it some amplitude again so I'm gonna turn up the signal generator which is the curve tracer here so I'll just turn that up okay so as you can see I'll just move this out okay from one sec here you can see that we only have one channel that's actually doing anything right here right this one here isn't doing anything so it does look like the right channel is not working so let's check that out so I will attach my scope up here I do this all shot and this on and all adjust the focus to the scope there we go yeah now I'll clip this on to here so this is on to the ground or common so I'm gonna take a look up here and look at that we have signal on this channel no problems there so that's the left channel on the top and let's go down to the bottom channel which is the right channel and it is definitely toast so there is no signal there I'll just move the focus onto the probe lead here so you can take a better look at that so you can see it's down here on the bottom connection so no signal there whatsoever go back to the scope here again and I'll move this back up to the top so no problems there so I'll turn the amplitude up on the signal generator here which is the curve tracer and you can see no problems there beautiful looking sine wave so we definitely have a channel that is toast so what I'm going to do now is get all this stuff out of the way here and we'll start comparing the schematic to the area that we need to start troubleshooting in and we'll find the problem and fix it the first thing that we want to do to start the troubleshooting procedure on this equalizer is find how the signal is getting from the input jacks on the back side of the unit onto the circuit board and way on the circuit board that signal is going first in order to do that we'll take a look at the schematic here in just a moment before I get started this unit here has been unplugged from my isolation transformer in variac supply so there is no AC supply attached to this right now and all the capacitors here have been safely discharged with that discharger box that's been built and released on patreon here by doing that it makes it safe for me to poke around in here and zoom on in and Bend components around and I don't have to worry about damaging the unit or damaging myself for that matter as well so the first thing that we want to do is find how the signal is getting from the input jack into the base of the first transistor here so we know that the signal goes from the input jack through a bunch of switching and then into this point right here and it does that for both channels we still don't know which channel is left or right but we'll locate that here in just a little bit so we want to look for TR 101 and TR 102 once we've located that we know that that's where the signal enters all of this circuitry when we start troubleshooting if we have no signal say we have no signal at this point right here we would know that the problem is this way if we have signal at this point here and this is the faulty channel we would know that the problem is this way right so if we have signal here obviously it's making its way through the circuitry to this point so we know that all of this is going to be okay to this point and then we have to troubleshoot this way so that's how it starts and it's the same with this channel as well so we have a signal present here if we find a signal at this point here we know that pretty much all of this is going to be okay and we have to start looking this way so the first thing that we want to identify on the circuit board is TR 101 and TR 102 so for those of you that are new to troubleshooting and new to looking at schematics this is not the part number of the transistor this simply stands for transistor 101 and transistor 102 this is there and to help us find these parts on their design on their circuit board the actual component part numbers are underneath here the 2 SC part numbers are the actual part numbers for this component so whenever you're looking in a piece of equipment and you see you know TR 1 or TR 2 or TR 150 gr 151 that just means transistor 151 and so on a lot of the times on the schematic itself they do not mark the part numbers they did a nice job with this schematic and they were pretty thorough including voltages and everything so nicely done schematic again you know know left and right but you know I guess that's just to be tolerated at this point so we're going to look for TR 101 and TR 102 first on this board so what I'm going to do is zoom on in the circuit board here just a little bit and we'll move to C TR 204 right here and TR 203 right here so we'll start over here and we can see right away almost immediately TR 101 and TR 102 so we know that the signal is entering these two transistors were eight here so this would be the place that we're going to look for the signal first now we know that by looking at this we can see TR 101 and TR one or two we know that they're on separate channels so we have TR 102 right here in TR 101 so chances are the dividing line between the channels is probably right in the middle right here right so from that point it goes from TR 101 into this op-amp right here it says IC 101 one half that means that this is half of a device so there are two op amps so technically two triangles in one device so this is IC 101 and this is only one half of that device and this is the part number down here so we need to locate IC 101 and that'll tell us where the signal is going from this point right here so we see I see 102 back here that if we look right up here you can see hiding under all these cables is I see 101 down there so the signal is gonna go from here / - I see 101 again there's two parts there's two op amps inside this one package inside this one 8 pin package right here so it goes from here over to here and then from I see 101 it goes into TR 103 so we'll follow this channel here first it goes into TR 103 and then into IC 102 so we already can see TR 103 right here and we know that this is IC 102 because we just spotted that earlier so it goes from here into the op amp up here through here into here and we can kind of see the progression as it's going back you can almost guess the way it's going right here here and here so this is one channel and this is the other Channel and I can see D so this is tr 110 tr 109 so if we're looking at the same channel again here we go TR 109 bingo so there's that little phat and we can see the D for drain right so there's a fact right here and we've know a little FET symbol on the board here they were kind of nice and put that in TR 109 and then from there I'm guessing it's going to go into TR 105 and TR 107 right here and right here so I'm with some of these wires out of the way a little bit you can see TR 107 and TR 105 what a surprise TR 105 and here are 107 and the signal goes from there back to the output jack on the back here again through some switching so we know that we have one channel that's going like this back here so that is the dividing line between the two channels and then this will be the other channel very easy to identify again try and get most of this into the shot here so we can CTR 102 and then we have I see 101 1/2 which we know is up here right so we have tea art 102 here and then I move this capacitor out of the way it says TR 104 and then it should go on to IC 102 again TR 104 IC 102 we see TR 110 it should be this little FET right here TR 110 and then we see TR looks to be 100 106 looks a little bit smeared down there and then TR 108 there it is deer 106 TR 108 and there it is so this is where we're going to start troubleshooting so we'll start at this point here so in order for me to start the troubleshooting procedure I'll get some test equipment set up here we'll feed a signal into this and we'll start looking for a signal through here and I'll show you that process I've been asked many many times to use the Carlson super probe in a troubleshooting video and one of the main reasons that I shy away from using this is because it just makes the troubleshooting procedure too easy it's over just that fast now in a production setting if you're using this thing to find faulty components and you know find where the signals missing in stages and things like that this thing is absolutely wonderful this thing is great for that but when you're making videos it just it gets you through the troubleshooting procedure in the blink of an eye it really is just too easy and it it's actually kind of ridiculous you'll see what I mean here in just a moment so you'll you'll really see it's good PR for the you know the Carlson super pearl but it makes for very very fast troubleshooting procedures again that's one of the reasons I shy away from using this thing if you'd like to see this thing used more and different types of troubleshooting procedures just let me know in the comments below and you know I'll consider that for future use it's a whole lot easier than using an oscilloscope or a DMM or anything like that for troubleshooting so this is known as a non-contact style a form of probing for those of you that are new to this channel and new to this so that means that basically I just clip this common lead here to a ground so I'll clip it to the common ground here in here and what I do is I just move this thing close to the stage and it will tell me if the stages are moving without even touching any components as you can see it's fully insulated on the end here so there is no touching leads like you would do with an oscilloscope or a DMM so you know there is no risk of further damaging any components you just breeze through the circuit super super fast and you can you find the problem so I'll demonstrate that here in just a moment you'll see how ridiculously fast this goes with this with a super probe so what I'll do is I'll turn on the super probe here I have a signal going on to this right now or into the back side here and this is plugged into my isolation transformer variac supply I also have my signal generator off to the side here which is that the signature tracer and that's feeding a signal into the back here so we're all set to go so I'll turn on the super Pro can give it just a little bit of volume you can see how incredibly sensitive it is so lots of noise so there's a a 1 kilohertz are very close to tone going into this right now coming into these leads you can hear it just by bringing this thing close into the circuit you know I'm at chassis level right now right at the top side you hear how incredibly sensitive that is right so what I'll do is I'll go close to a transistor in one stage will go this stage first so I'll go close to this transistor here first and see if we have signal there you can check out the green LED [Music] can see that a brightly that glows so that's the first transistor so now we know that the signal goes from here into that first IC and then from there into this transistor here so instead of me probing down in here let's just get close to this transistor right here and see if it's making it through it's just an easier path so if it was mute here we would know that the problems back in here somewhere so let's find out so we know that the signal is definitely getting to this little transistor here what I'll do is I'll zoom on in just a little bit it might make things a little bit easier you can see that and then I'll back away you'll see the little green LED go out it's kind of hard to see because there's a lot of light here it's just light here that's shining on it you know let's move that out of the way a little bit okay so we know that the signal is getting here so it goes into this IC and then it goes from this IC over to the fat here so they're close to the I see lots of signal there so I'll get close to the fat lots of signal there and then what we'll do is we'll go right between these two output transistors and we'll see if there's a signal there if this on the other side of this round lead here oh it's a signal at the output okay so we know that we have signal all the way through to the output on this channel so let's try the other channel now okay so we'll get close to this transistor here so we have signal there so we know that the signal is getting through all the switching to both of these transistors right here so that rate there eliminates a lot of issues so right there we know that the signals getting to both of these transistors so we know whatever channel it is we've tested one channel already so we've tested TR 101 so we've tested this channel here and there signal right to here because we put the the probe right between that point right there right we have tons of signal as you can see right there right so now we're gonna probe this channel so we'll move our way along again we'll skip this IC right here because it's kind of down in here and we'll go right to here so if there was no signal here on that channel we would know that the problem is back here and we'd have to look at that IC so we'll just skip that one area and we'll go right over to this transistor here no problems okay so we'll move up to the fat here no problems there okay and now we'll go between the two output transistors on the backside here Wow so we definitely have an issue here okay so between these two and between these two so we have no signal at this point right here and that is between these two transistors so already we've identified that there's a problem right in this area that's how fast see what I mean it's kind of ridiculous so what I'll do now is since we know that it's in this area right here this seems to be right here so what I'll do is I'll put the probe close to C 124 and that's the output of the IC and then we'll check the validity of this FET here and then we'll go close to C looks like 128 looks like C 128 I'll just zoom on in here it's easier for me to see there it is okay so there's C 124 right here and C 128 right here so we want to see if their signal here lots of signal there let's go to c128 let's quiet so the only thing now if we go between the output transistors is quiet here again right because there's no signal getting here so C 128 c 124 the only thing that's between C 124 and C 128 really is this fat right here so there's obviously signal getting into the fat but there's no signal getting out of it it looks like so whether that's a problem in the surrounding circuitry or voltage or whether the fed is open we still need to verify that so yeah definitely a problem turn the volume down a little bit here LED is a nice little feature to it really helps verify then again if we go to the opposite channel this channel so right now this is really looking suspect this little FET right here so what we're going to do now is we're going to use the signature tracer and we're going to compare what this phat looks like to this FET because the two channels are identical and we'll see if we see any differences here there's a few things that you want to look for in a FET like this and when I have the curve tracer all set up and you know that in the screenshot here I'll explain exactly what we're going to look for the next step is to verify both of these fats right here so we want to make sure that they're both working we know this one works so if we didn't know what a FET looked like in circuit we could simply compare the results of this one to this one here but I'll explain what you can expect when you test a J FET in circuit so this is an n-channel jfet a 2 SK 30 so this is a depletion type device and now when I say depletion simply all that means is it takes a negative voltage on the gate to turn this thing off so if you remember that it'll help you remember depletion so since there is no negative voltage right now this chassis is completely unplugged so there's no AC on it everything is discharged whenever you're using a curve tracer or a signature tray so you want to make sure everything is discharged and there's no voltage anywhere because you don't want to damage your curve tracer ring so the curve tracer itself supplies everything needed to test these devices in circuit so since this is a depletion type device there is no negative voltage to turn that little transistor this little J FET off so that means that it's going to be in a resistive region so if it's in a resistive region what type of symbol will we have on the curve tracer or the signature tracer we're gonna have what looks like a diagonal line indicating resistance and that will be from the source to the drain so we'll take a look at the curve tracer now and I'll grab the two test leads here so it doesn't matter which way the test leads go in circuit absolutely fine to hook it up this way or this way so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put the black lead here on the source just because in this hand and I'm going to go to the drain with this lead right here and we'll take a look at the curve tracer and there we have our diagonal line so right now it's in a resistive region now another test that we can perform on this phat to make sure that it's okay in circuit is we can take either lead and attach that and I'll take this lead here which is a red lead and I'll poke it to the drain and we should get what looks like a diode symbol on the curve tracer so here we go there's that diode symbol now if I go to the other lead so right now I'm going from the gate to the drain if I go from the gate to the source will see another diode symbol there it is so we can be pretty sure that this phat is okay if we were to take this fat out of circuit and test it out of circuit we would get a pattern on the desk that looks like an oscillating X and I'll explain that a little bit here and once I get this whole thing all apart I'll pull both of the fats out and I'll demonstrate what the oscillating X is it's a test that's never failed me testing any J fat on the bench and probably find it quite interesting here so I'll show you that in just a little bit and just another trick of using this device and testing these small components so now what I'm going to do is I'm going to go on this device here this is the device in question I'm gonna go from the source to the drain on this again and again this is a depletion type device so we should get that diagonal line it should be somewhere in a resistive state right now so here we go source to drain and look at that we have nothing on the screen so what does that tell us already so if I move this to the gate we should have what looks like a diode there it is now if I move this lead here to this other side we should have that diode symbol again there's nothing there so right at this point I'm pretty positive that this device is the fault in this channel and this will need to be replaced so this is a little bend that over there is you can see K 30 so whenever you see K and a number on it like K 30 a you have to remember to put two s in front of it that's how you look these things up so two SK 30 a would be the part number of this and then there's a gr after it now a two and five four eight six will very comfortably replace this in circuit and I'll explain why here in just a little but really just too much time working in chasis like this brings you to this these answers very very fast 2 & 5 4 8 6 is another n-channel jfet that will work absolutely fine in here so what i'll do is i'll desalter this device here then i'll desalter this device here and i'll show you what the oscillating X is and if you test a J FET on the bench with a curve tracer or signature tracer and you get the oscillating X symbol you can pretty much be sure that that FET is absolutely fine we'll take a look at that here in just a bit as well first of all I'll get these things out of the circuit board I'm ready to remove both of the FETs what I've done is I've put a little mark right at the center lead of each FET on the board this very easily comes off with alcohol or lacquer thinner or whatever you're using to clean the flux off the board when I install the new devices I clean the whole area make it really look like nobody's ever been in here before so all of this will just come off so these are the two fats that I'm going to remove and want to lose I'll just zoom on in here a little bit get you a little bit closer to what's going on so these are the three leads that I need to do solder and these are the three leads that I need to desoldering a [Music] so there should be just about ready to come out of the board now so turn this around like so grab this one here no problems that out of the way and this one here no problems out of the board just like that and I'm not even worried about confusing them because we're gonna test them both here in just a moment let's test both of these FETs now that they're out of circuit then I'll demonstrate what the oscillating X is so let's take a look at the curve tracer here so I'll go across this one here first and see what we get see if we get anything and probably gonna poke some holes in this paper nothing with this one here sounds probably the bad one let's go to this one here and there it is that is the oscillating X and this is what you'll see when you use this to test J FETs on the bench so you can see it looks like an X pattern and you can clearly see the oscillations that's because the gate lead is floating so we know that this one here is the good one so I'll move this one out of the way and we can definitely see here that this one is the bad one as we just tested and nothing happened so there we go nothing so that one I will put over here so I don't get it confused so this is a 2 n 5 4 8 6 this is what I'm going to use to replace this FET that's good here so well this one here will go back into circuit and I'll use the 2 and 5 4 8 6 as a replacement chances are what I'm going to do is end up matching two of these devices here and put 2 2 and 5 for 8 6s and I'll just remove this altogether just so I have two very closely matched devices to keep the channels as close as possible so get this one out of the way here I'll put this one back in circuit so we can compare the results so I'll put this one in and this one here and that's probably going to be very close so we'll take a look at this one so now the pin out of a 2 + 5 4 8 6 is a little bit different this is drain source and gate where this transistor the good one here is source gate drain so what we have to do is move a couple of leads around so basically what you do is you just move the transistor on an angle and then adjust the leads and put them in the holes and it should be absolutely fine that's the difference between you know dealing with a to SK product and a to n product so they you know they've got to be difficult and put the leads in different places so anyway so let's test this one will go from source to drain on this one and we'll see the oscillating X on the curve tracer again so we'll take a look at the curve tracer again here and there it is there's the oscillating X and that again is because the gate lead is open so if I move this over here and what I'll do is I'll probe this here and I'll just touch the gate lead with my finger and it'll slow the oscillation and you'll actually see the X straighten up a little bit here so I'll put this here like so and you can see as I touch the gate lead with my finger you can see how the X kind of straightens up and I'll remove my finger from the gate lead right just move this here like so and you can see it's popping out of I'll just reverse the leads leave it down like so there you go there's the oscillating X again again I'll touch the gate lead there you go and I'll remove my finger you can see the oscillation picks up it's a very very simple test to test these J fits and it's never led me astray once so if you see that pattern on your signature or curve tracer when you go from drain to source pretty much rest assure that your fat is okay and then again if you want you can even touch the gate lead and you can see the results and of course I'm slipping off the leads here there you go and then that's with my finger removed and again we should get the diode if we go from the gate to the other leads so what we'll do is on from here to here I see that diode looking symbol and from here to here you see the diode looking symbol again so very simple test for J FETs on the bench using the signature or curve tracer again if you get the oscillating X symbol when you're testing any type of a small signal J fit you're pretty much good to go it's never led me astray put it that way you might be wondering why I think a 2n 5 4 8 6 will comfortably replace a 2 s K 30 ay even though the 2n 5 4 8 6 has a during gate voltage of only 25 volts whereas the stock device is a 50 volt rated device well in this circuit this is just acting as a switch in fact this is acting as a pop switch all this thing is doing is it's shutting the audio off to stop this from creating a pop in the speaker's when you first turn this thing on so really it's just dealing with audio level signals and they're very very low we can even see the capacitors on each side are only rated at 16 volts one here and one here so the 2n 5 4 8 6 will very very comfortably replace the 2 SK 38 and it will in many applications again the things that you need to look for are you know the drain gate voltage and things like that reverse gate source voltage things like that in this case again it's absolutely fine you can see here the gate voltage is rated at point 5 of a volt you know right here it says zero volts and 0 volts well you know that when we add audio to this of course we're gonna have an audio signal on each side but it'll fall well within the ratings of the component no problems whatsoever the 2 + 5 4 8 6 is that great device you know really low capacitance devices designed for you know VHF and uhf amplifiers has really good noise figures as well so I'm quite comfortable replacing both of these parts here with the 2 + 5 4 8 6 I have the new transistor installed right here and as you can see it's facing that way and that's because I've moved the leads like this so this way none of the leads touch and it fits into the circuit just fine so we need to move a few of the leads around in order to make this fit so this just now would fit into the board like that and there would be no leads touching if we tried to keep it this way and you know move the the leads around leads would end up touching or I'd need to put lead dress on this so that they you know they don't touch together when I twist things around so it's just easier to mount the transistor that way and there's lots of clearance and that's what's been done on this side right here what I'm gonna end up doing is installing another one of these on this side so I've matched a pair of two and five four eight six is on a different type of curve tracer it's a step type curve tracer and I have videos on matching transistors and things like that with a curve tracer so that's a little bit beyond this video right here but there are two matched devices that are gonna end up going in here so we'll just compare this one here with the original one which is right here the two SK 30 which is down in that spot right there again I have the curve tracer acting as a signal generator again so I'm feeding the signal at the output Jack's on the signature and curve tracer into the input on the backside of the equalizer here I have also set the equalizer flat here so that should give us a good idea of what's going on so what I'll do is I'll advance the game and I'll take a look at the meter here so here we go look at that no problems really close two on each side so again the two and five four eight six and the two SK 30 are only really acting as switches so not too incredibly important to have them incredibly closely matched but I have two very closely matched FETs and I'll change that to SK 30 out on the other channel just to have two identical components in the signal path on each side so it's working good turn this back up again and turn that back down so what I'll do is all attach an oscilloscope to the back side and we'll take a look at the signal on each channel as well I have my very small oscilloscope attached to both the left and the right output of this equalizer so one trace represents right and the other trace represents left what I'll do is I'll turn up my curve tracer which is acting as a signal generator here so I'll turn up the gain and we'll take a look at both channels we go look at that it looks great no problems whatsoever so another neat piece of stereo gear lives on again repair successful if you think building and using pieces of test equipment like this will make you a better troubleshooter or a better electronics technician you're definitely going to want to check out my patreon page all the files for these devices have been released up they're all the printed circuit board layouts all the component Maps schematics and instructional videos on how to use these things and build these things are all up there and it's a continual thing I keep adding new pieces of test gear that I've modified or designed up there and I'm sharing it with the community so there's a lot of really neat projects up there beyond what you see here on the bench so this video was just a quick example of how incredibly useful the super probe and the curve tracer are just as two devices and there are so many more pieces of test gear up there custom pieces of test gear that I've designed and I'm sharing with everyone I hope you enjoyed the repair journey through this ADC stereo equalizer if you did enjoy this video you can let me know by giving me a big thumbs up and hang around there'll be many more videos coming like this in the near future we'll be taking a look at vacuum tube and solid state equipment alike so there will be a lot of repairs restoration troubleshooting and even circuit redesign right here so if you haven't subscribed now would be a good time to do that as well if you're interested in taking your Tronics knowledge to the next level and if you're interested in learning my thought process as I repair and restore equipment you might want to check out my ongoing electronics course on patreon I'll put the link just below this video at the top of the comment section so if you click on the link it'll take you right there alright until next time take care bye for now

social EQ is an audio equalizer that adapts to you audio equalizers are tools commonly used in audio production to alter the timbre of a sound you can think of it as an Instagram filter for sound here are examples of how an original sound changes by an equalizer [Music] current equalizers have too many knobs and sliders making them difficult to use instead of complicated controllers social EQ just asks you to rate different example equalizations as you rate it learns your preferences this approach is similar to how eyeglass prescriptions are learned let's hear an example suppose I want Equalization to make a recording sound warmer [Music] social EQ presents a series of Equalization settings apply to the recording you listen to each example by clicking on the associated circle you read examples by dragging them to the desired horizontal position I think example one is work so I put it on the right side of the screen [Music] the second example sounds even warmer so I put it a little farther to the right than the first circle [Music] you [Music] [Music] once I write eight examples in total social occasion rates a slider to control how warm things sound you [Music] if you need Equalization to realize your sound concept but don't want to work with complicated interfaces may be social eq is for you

bei den audio equalizer von w2e y technologie es handelte sich um praxiserprobtes zubehör das speziell für den einsatz mit funkgeräten entwickelt wurde die geräte zeichnen sich durch eine hohe hf ein strahlungs festigkeit aus und lassen sich problemlos in eine vorhandene station integrieren nahezu beliebige mikrofone lassen sich an eine vielzahl von funkgeräten anpassen wobei die klanglichen eigenschaften des mikrofons so verändert werden können dass die beschaffenheit der sende signals für den jeweiligen einsatzzweck optimiert ist egal ob es sich um ein durchsetzungsfähiger signal in dix und contest betrieb handelt oder um eine amateurfunk runde wo der fokus auf einer eher ausgewogenen modulation liegt der w2a y acht band audio equalizer ist pult für mich aufgebaut der equalizer zeichnet sich durch hohe konstruktions qualität und durchdachte details in der bedienung aus die folgenden bedienelemente und anschlüsse stehen zur verfügung links unten das potentiometer für den audio level dieses dient gleichzeitig als ein aus schalter daneben der schalter für das neue skate rechts daneben dessen einstellen regler das neue skate dient der unterdrückung von hintergrundgeräuschen wie zb lüftern oder anderen geräuschquellen im check zwei leds zeigen den allgemeinen betriebszustand und die funktion des neues gates an auf der rechten seite die einsteller regler des 8 band equalizer dessen frequenzen im bereich von plus minus 16 db angepasst werden können der kippschalter ganz rechts schaltet den equalizer an und aus die darüber befindliche led meldet eine übersteuerung des equalizer auf der rückseite stehen drei mikrofon buchsen zur auswahl ein xlr anschluss eine 8 polige buchse die für mikrofone von ikon kennwort und ja ich so geeignet ist der drehregler ist für die auswahl der jeweils passenden beschaltung zuständig sowie ein nieder omega hilfs anschluss wenn das verwendete mikrofon keine ptt steuerung besitzt kann diese separat über den rc anschluss darüber erfolgen auf der rechten seite befinden sich zwei ausgänge für mikrophon signale sodass zwei transfer versorgt werden können die ausgänge sind mit dem schiebeschalter auswählbar schließlich noch der eingang für die versorgungsspannung das netzteil ist dem lieferumfang enthalten und ein kopfhöreranschluss hierüber lässt sich das audiosignal kontrollieren ohne dass dieses über den transit ausgestrahlt werden müsste der w2 y iq plus audio equalizer ist ein gerät das man stand alone oder im zusammenspiel mit dem 8 band equalizer verwenden kann die folgenden bedienelemente stehen zur verfügung links unten der an aus schalter mit der dazugehörigen kontroll led rechts daneben ein umschalter der mikrofon und aux eingänge für impedanz von 200 und 600 sowie 50 kilo sowie ein kippschalter der eine 5 volt versorgungsspannung für bestimmte mikrofone der firmen ikom und ele kraft bereitstellt der regler für die michael erlaubt eine erhöhung des signal pegels von bis zu 40 db die zehn segmenten pegel anzeige zeigt je nach eingeschalteter funktion den audio pegel mit oder ohne zugeschalteten equalizer beziehungsweise kompressor der separat zuschaltbare equalizer umfasst einen bass und einen hohen kanal wobei jeder einstell strich eine veränderung von 4 db markiert im rechten teil finden sich oben regler für den kompressor dieser verstärkt den mittleren audio output und den ex partner letzterer beseitigt unerwünschte grund geräusche wie lüfter lärm der kippschalter daneben schaltet diese funktion ein und aus in der unteren reihe die regler für den effekt prozessor und ein dreistufiger umschalter mit den reglern werden die amplitude und die verzögerung der summen signals eingestellt um verschiedene effekte zu erzeugen rechtsaußen schließlich befinden sich zwei drehregler für den ausgangspegel und die lautstärke des mitgehörten signals der eco plus verfügt über drei audio eingangs buchsen links oben ein hilfs anschluss für eine externe quelle wie zum beispiel ein mischpult oder der w2a y acht band audio equalizer darunter ein acht bodyguards standardanschluss für mikrofone der firmen jesu komm und kenwood daneben der dazugehörige umschalter auch über den zins eingang ist ein mikrofon anschließbar der ptt eingang ermöglicht eine externe sende empfangs umschaltung wenn ein mikrofon nicht über eine pc taste verfügt in der mitte zu sehen ist ein umschalter für die drei mikrofon ausgänge es können also drei transceiver angeschlossen werden ein netzteil für den gleich spannungs eingang rechts oben ist bestandteil des lieferumfangs der kopfhörerausgang darunter ermöglicht eine kontrolle des ausgangs signals ohne dass dieses über den transit ausgestrahlt werden muss nach einschalten des audio equalizer und einstellen eines ausreichenden mikrofon pegels wird zunächst das neue skate so eingestellt dass die grüne led ohne modulation geradeaus geht so werden hintergrundgeräusche in sprechpausen nicht übertragen sehr praktisch bei multi operator betrieb oder bei lauten lüfter geräuschen hier nun die originale klangcharakteristik des verwendeten mikrofons dieses ist relativ dumpf und damit schlecht geeignet für die iks betrieb equalizer ausgeschaltet test 12345 nun werden die band pässe des equalizer so justiert dass hohe klang anteile verstärkt werden equalizer eingeschaltet west 12 345 nun wird eine ausgewogenere einstellung gewählt die weniger höhen orientiert ist und eher geeignet für längere kurs kess 12345 fest 12345 die einstellungen sind präzise nach eigenen vorlieben justierbar sodass praktisch jedes mikrofon verwendet werden kann und innerhalb der verwendeten bandbreite des an trans iva eingestellten filters optimale ergebnisse erzielt werden hier eine demonstration der halle effekte des eco plus in der stellung 1 wird ein mehrfach allein geschleift in der stellung 2 ein einfacher als letzterer kann vorsichtig eingesetzt dem signal noch etwas mehr durchsetzungskraft verleihen und damit den kompressor sinnvoll ergänzen 0 test 1234 die stellung 11 234 abschließend die stellung zu test 1234 die audio equalizer von w2e y technologie sind contest erprobt das deutsche team bei der wtc 2014 sieger des dritten platzes hatte in eco plus verwendet

- Hello, I'm Mike Russell from musicradiocreative.com and welcome to my Audacity equalization tutorial for beginners. Check out my Audacity ultimate course for beginners. If you are a podcaster, YouTuber, voiceover artist or audio editor, you need this course. Head over to mrc.fm/audacity. That is mrc.fm/audacity. ♪ Check the mic and make sure it sound right, boy ♪ ♪ It sound right, boy ♪ Okay, let's get started in Audacity. I've got a little bit of voice recorded here and I wanna show you the basics of getting a voice to sound good with EQ in Audacity. So, first of all, under the effect menu we'd look for filter curve EQ. This gives us the most flexibility. Now by default, this will be a flat line. If it's not, click the flatten button there. Now we can start to do some work. And the first thing you'll wanna do is roll off base. Anything below around 100 Hertz is not audible in the human voice, so we can put a dot here and a dot here. And when we've put the second dot in, drag down and eliminate base. That's the first thing. Second thing, above around 6,100 Hertz we got those nice crisp treble frequencies. Let's hear them. Here's a voiceover that I will EQ using Audacity. Okay, there it is so far. Now of course, if I switch this all off, if I actually listen to it without any EQ, you'll notice the difference. Let's flatten that out again. Here's a voiceover that I will EQ. Standard voiceover but now we're putting on the low end knockoff which is a high pass filter and this high end increase. And then we can go through a notch up maybe some of the high end there, maybe some of the base here. And again, all of this we're doing by adding little points on and maybe drag out some of the mid-range here. Let's preview. Here's a voiceover that I will EQ using Audacity. And using just a few steps there in the filter curve EQ, we can really create a crispier and cleaner voiceover. Rolling off base with a high pass there, notching up at the low end, getting rid of some of that boxy mid-range, enhancing the highs. Really easy to do. Click okay to apply and you have just done your first equalization in Audacity. Let me know any questions you have in the comments down below. If you are creating an online radio show podcast, radio imaging, or simply wanna make your voice sound different, you must get hold of my Audacity presets. Head over to mrc.fm/presets. Go and get them now at mrc.fm/presets. (rock upbeat music) ♪ Thumbs up ♪ ♪ Subscribe for more ♪ ♪ Musicradiocreative.com ♪

whatever happened to audio equalizers and this question comes from John named John and Modena Italy back in the 70s and 80s having an equalizer in your hi-fi system was almost a must now you don't see them anymore was it just a fashion or are there reasons why they're now extinct I'm trying to fix the 60 70 Hertz boom issue with my system and seems like an equalizer could have been a good way to go thanks Gianni so well it's a good question and and my answer may may be may be surprising to you I think in the 60s and the 70s when equalizers were popular it was for good reason back then things weren't that great sounding speakers of the 60s and 70s needed a little help there were classics of course you know your Altec Lansing is your JBL's the Rogers ls3 what else was around back then quads and whatnot and and while of course there's always been perfectionist audios that are purists by purist we mean people that pay more attention to the purity of the audio signal that the unmolested of the audio signal which equalizers molest the audio signal they they are anything but pure but but we've always had purists right but you're right the majority of people back then had bass and treble controls had loudness controls which I think we've talked about before a loudness control helps with the fletcher months and curve problem where at lower volume levels we don't hear sound evenly so when you have lower volume levels the bass and the treble appear to our hearing to have been rolled off when it when of course it isn't it's flat so the loudness controls were based in treble boosts at lower volume and then as you turn the volume up that those are the boost's went down to flat but you're right I remember gosh what was the citation amplifiers the sound craftsmen there were a number of products that had a equalizers because back then you really did need help speakers needed help systems needed help that was kind of in the infancy of of hi-fi and and high-end audio was just getting started back then so of course we had bass and treble controls because it was the duty of the amplifier and the preamplifier to set things right and not to mention many many recordings back then were pretty bad we were at the tail end of the 78 of the before oh you know stereo a lot of mono records which a lot of them sounded great but a lot of vinyl Oh was pretty bad back then and it needed help so between the the needy recordings the needy speakers amplifiers and preamplifiers were required to have some means of compensating for the deficiencies of the systems but that's not true today and today you have speaker systems and recordings that are spectacular and for the most part even the cheapest stuff out there doesn't really benefit from a bass in a treble control so unless you have something specific like bad recordings or you have a problem in your room then I I would kind of stay away from them and and in far your room I would work on getting rid of that problem using other techniques not by reducing the frequencies at you know at a specific point so that you have that okay all right Johnny thanks for the question [Music] [Laughter] [Music]