Description
INTRO
AV-SP12H2 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 out 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 8bit HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision compatible, HDCP 2.2,HDCP 2.3bandwidth up to 18Gbps, IMAX DIGITAL (2K-4K).–Plug and Play, No driver.
Supports 4K HDR TV & 1080p Capture Card work in sync; D-o-l-b-y Vision&Atmos work in sync.
Upgrade Firmware.Settable HDCP and EDID via Micro-USB port. Set EDID, Scaler via panel switch.
1. Two HDMI OUT can down-scale independently, SCALER button 1 down-scale OUT 1; SCALER button 2 down-scale OUT 2, both can down-scale 4K to 1080p 60Hz ONLY,NO 3D, NO ANOTHER resolution.
2. DO NOT Down-scale 4K D-o-l-b-y Vision,HDR VRR.
3. When you set COPY mode, EDID copy from OUT 1. To get Atmos, D-o-l-b-y Vision sync, ensure the TV/Receiver devices support both of them.
4. If you have two devices, one 4K D-o-l-b-y vision and one Atmos,please set the EDID to 4K.
Please check Installation Instruction on product page before using it. Sometime, just plug or change HDMI source Video/Audio setting to solve issue.
Package Contents
1x HDMI Splitter, 1x Micro-USB cable, 1x User Manual
Audio Video
Supports HDCP 2.2 HDCP 2.3 HDMI2.0 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 18Gbps 8bit HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision.
HDMI audio: D-o-l-b-y Digital 7.1CH, Atmos, DTS:X, D-o-l-b-y TrueHD, DTS-HD Master, LPCM 2.1/ 5.1/ 7.1CH.
HDMI Input: HDMI2.0 standard cable, <5m AWG26;
HDMI Output: HDMI2.0 standard cable, <10m AWG26 . When Output 4K60Hz 4:4:4, <3m HDMI 2.0 cable.
Fiber HDMI cable, pls pay attention at HDMI cable SOURCE/ DISPLAY port description, plug correct port to correct HDMI device.
HDMI splitter does not extend screen, only copy screen.
Any question just let me know,You will get a satisfactory answer
Emilio Gaglione –
PRODOTTO CHE FA QUELLO CHE DICE
BuonaseraUn prodotto OTTIMO,sotto tutti i punti di vista.Collegato ad un Bluray Panasonic su uscita HDMI.L’uscita l’ho connessa sul mio Black Magic Video assist 7. Ha sprotetto ed ho registrato per copia di backup, Matrix Reolade 4K HDR alla massima risoluzione su una scheda SD chiaramente con scrittura a 350Mbps. Quindi, l’ho “stressato” al massimo e funziona benissimo. APPENA ARRIVATO ED HO APERTO LA CONFEZIONE, sono rimasto basito dalle dimensioni e dalle viti allentate con cui era assemblato,subito ho pensato all’ennesimo tarocco hardware. I fatti mi hanno smentito su tutti i fronti.Vero,il DVD con qualche software lo ricopi,ma il mio test era mirato a capire quando davvero fosse potente. Davvero da acquistare i prodotti di questo produttore. OTTIMI!!!
Daniel R. Avila –
best splitter i ever bought
i was recommend this product from a reviewer off of youtube. this is great if you stream on twitch and really easy to used as long you power it with a usb plug.
Miradob –
For those who want to Capture PS3 footage!! This WILL work.
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 First and foremost it took a bit of finagling to get it to work. Right out of the box I connected my PS3 to it then from the splitter my monitor. It worked flawlessly. Depending on what capture card you’re using you may need to do some research. I happen to be using EVGA XR1 RGB. With HDCP ON it worked but no OBS. It took some time and unplugging and re-plugging everything in to get it to behave.I think for it to work properly… you have to connect everything first then attach power. If you don’t see anything due to HDCP, you push in the “update” button in the front for 3 secs. And after you confirm both ends are lit blue – it’s receiving info – Restart OBS to see what the capture card is spitting out.
Amazon Customer –
Works Through Soundbar, PS5, Old Computer Monitor, and Samsung TV
After a bunch of fiddling this turned out perfectly. I have the ARC tv hdmi going to Output 1 and my old 1080p computer monitor that I still love hooked up to Output 2. Also on Output 2 I flipped the scaler to “On” so it is downscaling the 4k to 1080p. The picture looks perfectly vivid and crisp with no jaggies because of the impressive downscaling. The input is coming from my ps5 of course. With this setup I have my ARC sound working like normal and the PS5 feeding to the TV like normal and I did not lose my surround at all or 7.1 DTS audio when using the splitter in just TV mode.There is one or two PS5 related things I wanted to mention to help others out. If you have built in speakers to your monitor (Or another TV in another room), it may not output any audio if you do not change the PS5s settings depending on the type of audio your monitor can receive (usually they can only take linear pcm).When I am spreading the image to my monitor while I am at my work desk, I have to change the PS5 settings to turn off HDR in the PS5s settings or it looks funky (The monitor doesn’t have HDR), and then to get sound you have to turn off the DTS/DOLBY, etc in the PS5s sound menu. and switch it to “Linear PCM” you will then get sound through your computer monitor as well. This took me a day of fiddling so I hope it saves other people time. Also, if you have a spare USB on your PS5 you can actually just straight up hook the usb from the splitter into your PS5 so the splitter turns on with your PS5. Despite what some Q & A said this doesn’t come with a power adapter its just a usb charging cord. At first I had the usb hooked to my tv which does work, however, it only works when you have the TV on or it kills the power to the splitter, this works but doesn’t 100% fit the need as when I’m at the computer I don’t want to leave the tv on at all times.Aside from that this works better than I thought it would because I thought it would have issues. I can now have my little one on the TV when she needs to use it to watch her shows and then still have my PS5 streaming through to my computer monitor. Before I got this splitter I was hardly ever on my PS5 anymore because the little one was always on the TV. Great purchase! I have only had this for a few days though so I can’t say how long it lasts before burning out, but for now it works fantastic.
Kat Sarracco –
This splitter worked for Samsung K850 and K950 soundbars
We have new 2020 Samsung TVs with passthrough support for Dolby Atmos or Dolby Vision. When I bought the new TVs, I hoped that Dolby Atmos would work with the older Samsung K850 and K950 soundbars because of the passthrough support. It doesn’t work because the soundbars use ARC and the TVs use eARC.I tested 3 configurations with this splitter: This low cost splitter worked pretty well for a simple configuration.1. First Configuration: This the obvious setup with the soundbar HDMI-OUT connected to HDMI-IN on the splitter. The splitter output was connected to the TV and the soundbar.As others reported, it didn’t work. But I don’t think it’s a problem with the splitter.It’s a K850 and K950 soundbar problem because the soundbar HDMI-OUT is HDMI 2.0 and sends ARC. The splitter doesn’t recognize ARC, which is what the soundbar is using.2. Second Configuration: Used the splitter via the Fire TV Cube. This worked and sent Dolby Atmos to both soundbars. It proves that the soundbar’s HDMI-OUT is not picked up by the splitter.1) The Fire-TV cube is connected to HDMI-IN of the splitter. The splitter’s EDID switch is set for Copy (described as Auto in the User Guide).2) HDMI-1 OUT of the splitter is connected to the HDMI-IN on the TV. Did not enable scaling.3) HDMI-2 OUT of the splitter is connected to HDMI-1 on the soundbar. Did not enable scalingNOTE 1: I tested the K850 and K950 soundbars with and without firmware upgrades. Found that the firmware upgrades cleared up a Dolby Atmos scenario which required the stream to start and then a reset to the same HDMI port on the soundbar.NOTE 2: If the video is purple toned or grainy, try setting the EDID switch for 4K. It should clear up.If the video doesn’t clear up, set the scaling on each HDMI-OUT port (test one at a time)3. Third Configuration: the main TV uses a cable box. The output from the cable box is not 4K, so I didn’t test the splitter. It would probably work with a 4K cable box.1) Left the Direct TV HDMI-OUT connected to HDMI-1 IN on the TV. Used the splitter and the Fire TV cube.2) The TV and soundbar inputs had to be switched for either Direct TV or Fire TV. Everything worked, but there is no ARC or eARC control to make it easier.— TV inputs: Used Cable TV and Fire TV as names for the TV HDMI ports.— Soundbar inputs: Fire TV used HDMI-2 on the soundbar. Had to connect an optical cable from the Cable TV box to the soundbar and use D.IN for Cable TV audio.3) The family was confused by the TV and soundbar switching. The cable box and soundbar configuration will require a unit that can convert ARC to eARC.
Larzsinn –
It works, mostly…
I have a venerable Onkyo TX-NR1030, which is a very capable receiver given it’s age and there is one thing it won’t do for me – which is to pass through 4k 60Hz HDR signals. 4k 30Hz HDR or 4k 60Hz SDR works fine. For whatever reason – Apple TV, when set to automatic frequency and detail matching will try to use 4K 60Hz HDR when I’ve taken it off the list, so when I try to watch season 2 of Carnival Row, all I get on screen is audio and CC. When I connect the Apple TV to the projector directly, I have no issues, so I know it’s the HDMI board in the receiver causing the issue. This is the reason why I purchased the HDMI Splitter. To make a long story short, I’m using the HDMI splitter as an audio extractor. The documents say there is support for Dolby Atmos, but not (there are mixed messages). I took a chance and I lost. When playing media with Dolby Atmos, my receiver detects and shows a very distinct and separate Dolby Atmos logo. No matter what configuration I use with the HDMI splitter, I can never get the receiver to show the Dolby Atmos logo. So my options are: OPTION1 – use the splitter and watch Carnival Row in 4k 60Hz HDR without Atmos; OPTION2 – go without the splitter and set Apple TV to 4k 60Hz SDR or 4k 30hz HDR, turn off frequency and detail matching and experience Carnival Row with Atmos; or OPTION 3 – scrap the whole thing and get a new receiver. I’m good with option 2 for now. So to wrap it up – the splitter works, but it does not pass the full Dolby Atmos signal to the receiver.
T.J. Turgeon –
Finicky but it works sometimes
Not a fan of having to use a USB port for power. You will have to buy a wall plug USB power adapter if you don’t want to tie up a computer USB port. Operation is also finicky. You must plug devices in in a specific order. If you don’t get the order right then you have to unplug them and try again. (Powering down with devices still plugged in will not work.) I suspect that it has to do with the HDCP copy protection. When you finally get the sequence correct it works great. The problem is you can’t just leave the devices all plugged in. The HDCP handshaking has to be done in a proper order or will just get a black screen output. I did find that if the two outputs were already plugged in that I could unplug the input and replug it to get it to work.
Ron –
At last a solution that works for me!
I was using a ‘normal’ HDMI splitter to feed both my Denon AVR/main HD TV and a simple HD TV in another room. The problem was the fact that HDMI negotiates the picture and sound parameters to the LOWEST common denominator of both devices. These parameters are basically what EDID is all about. So while the picture was fine at 1080 on both TVs the sound negotiated down to plain “stereo” (due to the simple HD TV) pretty much making my entire 5.1 sound system useless. My source is a Blu-ray player so all movie sound tracks ended up simple stereo rather than the Dolby 5.1 as intended. I have been looking for a long time on how to solve this issue. Most of the discussion around splitting HDMI talks about the picture parameters, never really mentions the audio parameters. I stumbled upon this splitter with EDID features and figured I’d just try it out.This splitter let me circumvent the negotiation with all devices and simply “copy” the HDMI parameters negotiated with the Denon AVR in port 1 and send it to the simple HD TV in the other room via port 2. Result was full Dolby sound again and the TV in the other room continued to work just fine – just like Magic !!!I did not need/use the “Downscale” feature so I cannot comment on that.
Some Guy –
Does what it supposed to do
I’m using this to get my temperamental soundbar to work. My old TV only has one 4k60hz HDMI port and can only pass Dolby digital. My soundbar doesn’t always like to passthrough HDMI signals but can process lots of formats.This solves the problem of getting Atmos and HDR playing on my TV. only problem is no ARC or CEC control.
People’s Bank –
Great product but missing one feature
All the features where great. It did a very good job of splitting the incoming signal to my Audio-Video system. I quickly realized however that this item did not have CEC pass-through and I could no longer control my equipment with one remote. I now needed four remotes to control the different electronic pieces. Other than this drawback, its a great splitter.